Audi parts reviews

My Michelin Alpins were outstanding in the snow

Purchased a Red Top 35 today and it fits! I did have to take the bottom bracket and flip it so that the side of the battery facing the headlight [+ -] stayed secure.

I don't have the valve lift K04 but my APR K04 works great. Power and reliablility. I have it on my base 2010 TT Quattro and it is so much more fun now.

I have about 10K on my '13 TTS. Just changed over to my snows and the original Toyos still look near brand new. Front and back looked about the same in wear.

I ended up keeping the gates kit, I've put about 8k miles on it so far.

I've got an Audi A4 Quattro that I DD, Autocross and teach HPDE ( Track Days ). Originally I tried the TT carrier / A8 rotor (312mm ) upgrade. I later switched to Porsche Boxster calipers because I was getting pad taper on Track Days.

The biggest advantage is that it's CHEAP and works well. I don't run it in my R...yet. I am still under maintenance free. I do run it in my Stage 3 B5 S4 and in my 1991 Audi 200 though. Haven't sent the oil to Blackstone for analysis, but haven't had any issues either.

There is no way to know without removing the cylinder head and posting pictures. Best case you can just replace the timing belt and any bent valves.

The PSS10 actually do OK on the track. They soak up high speed bumps nicely. I have front and rear H&R bars, so even though there is some roll, it is less than say, SHS. It is around town where this combo feels harsh to me.

I bought a 13" replacement blade from the local Wal-Mart: manufacturer 'Anco', part number 31-13. Price at my store was $4.57. It looked like it would slip right in to replace the entire wiper & blade assembly... but unfortunately, the 'cage' is too wide, and it won't fit into the A3 rear wiper receiver. -So -having spent the money & opened the pack, I decided to try using the blade and metal reinforcing 'springs' in the old (Audi OEM) wiper blade. I had to bend one 'claw' of the replacement Anco blade open, to get the new insert and metal strips out (the strips have a 'lock' which prevents them sliding out). Then I had to persuade the OLD rubber blade and spring-steel reinforcement strips out of the OEM blade assembly. -This was a bit tricky, but I was able to to slide them out. Then I slipped the new rubber and metal reinforcement strips into the old OEM blade assembly... but be sure to slip the 'clip' end in LAST, and also make sure that the three little 'teeth' on the inside faces are alongside the rubber, so that they grip it and prevent it from slipping out. UNFORTUNATELY... the replacement 'blades' are about a quarter of an inch too short, and the end away from the clips doesn't support the rubber all the way to the furthest 'claw'. -This means that if you try to run them this way, the rubber will eventually slip out from the end of the blade, leaving the 'claw' to scratch the glass. I bodged a 'fix' by re-using the OLD metal blades AS WELL AS the new ones. -You have to do this on both sides. -It's an absolute bugger to get them in all the way, would probably be a little easier if you 'lubed' up the slots that they have to slide in (the rubber slots alongside the other metal blades) with a dish soap solution or something similar, but -using a pair of pliers and some creative curse words, I got them to slide in. So... for less than five bucks I got something to work. HOWEVER... It's about a quarter of an inch shorter than the OEM blade, it's a WHOLE lot of farting around, and I think every time I do this from this point onward, I'm going to just buy the OEM blade and have done with it. -The saving is about $3, and the hassle and all of the fiddling simply isn't worth it.