I used NGK Iridium.
Volkswagen parts reviews
I run Nexen N'Fera SU1 tires on my GTI in the summer: https://www.nexentireusa.com/tires/high-performance/n-fera-su1 Best budget tires I've ever tried. They are wearing nicely, grip in dry and wet is great. I was VERY surprised about the wet weather performance. I'd buy them again and again, no questions asked.
I have a 12 GLI with 82k and just changed my plugs for the first time. Holy cow what a difference. It had been running a little rough and even made it seem like the clutch was slipping on hard acceleration between 3 and 4. I thought it was carbon buildup, but I just had that cleaned up at 60k. The new plugs make it run like new again.
Okay - so I now have 25,000 miles on this clutch kit, with zero issues. Grabs strong, and with my bleeder block and clutch pedal spring removal the engagement point is clear and feels like it should. I don't remember what the old clutch felt like anymore, but I have been in stop/go traffic hundreds of times with this clutch kit and I think the extra grabbiness/stiffness of the pedal is the only minor downside to this kit. It's not unmanageable though!
The best solution I have found is to use slotted rotors--cryo treatment typically gets me 10K more miles before hard spots develop and I get a pedal vibration--and an aggressive pad without any ceramics. My solution is to use the best quality slotted rotor I can find, cryo treatment preferred, and use either a Wilwood BP-10/20 pad or a Project Mu NS brake pad. I found those two pads were aggressive enough to have great stopping power and would wear out the rotor at the same rate the pad wore down.
Mine were equally grooved, if not more so. The stock pads have a high metal content and this eats away at the rotors. I recently changed my front rotors and pads for Stoptech Slotted + EBC red ceramic pads. Rotors are noticeably higher quality, and the pads are pretty good as well, though they dust considerably more than my stock ones did.
As for the r32 rack, definitely quickens the steering. The swap really isn't very hard if you are already dropping the subframe for whatever reason.
What finally seemed to help was replacing the cabin air filter (did myself in 3/2017) with one of the MANN charcoal filters (FP26 009 "Frecious Plus"). Perhaps this was just coincidental, but we have not experienced the problem since changing the filter.
2015 MK7-R purchased June 2015, now has 6900 miles with Bridgestone (130 Treadwear-RIDICULOUS), rotated at 6500 at Discount tire, 7/32 in front and 8/32 in the rear. Mostly city driving, only 4.5 miles to work.
I did the plug change for the first time on my Tig. Pretty easy and took maybe 30 minutes. tricky part was getting the wire harness/clips to release from coil packs. Just be patient and use a small screwdriver. FWiW, I used Autolite Iridium plugs cuz my local NAPA dealer was out of the NGK's and recommended these. The quality was really bad on my set.. The cathode (curved portion of the plug) was significantly off axis, misaligned. One plug was bad enough that I returned it for an exchange. These plugs get high reviews on Amazon, so I kept them in without any problem but will be going back to the OEM NGK's next time. My old plugs looked very good for 45K miles.
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