Brake caliper OEM Volkswagen or OEM Audi

Okay actually got some stuff done this weekend. Got the new rear spindles, refurbished backing plates, rotors, metal lines and soft lines, re conditioned original calipers…sure I’ll be revisiting these lol.

I think my wife's Q7 has...6 pistons in the front brake calipers. Your Honda Pilot, which is larger, has one piston per caliper.

So if you don't want to spend all that money on the full setup, a Mk7 Golf R caliper is direct bolt on fit to the Arteon. I spent $200 for calipers on EBay, $100 for a rebuild kit, $80 for new OE pads and $40 to reline the discs. Bolted right up.

Yes basically the same as Macan calipers, just a LOT less expensive. The feel is great, more pad area and better clamping force compared to the OEM single piston, made my tires scream for mercy. The weight savings is a nice perk as well.

I need brakes for the front. I'm a whore for big brakes and have a few OEM options to pick from. I was going to use some 312mm from the Golf 4motion but I dug out a MK4 R32 set in need of a rebuild. They're 334mm with twin piston calipers so should look good behind whatever wheels I pick and also stop good.

Install was easy, just as planned. This kit is refurbished oe calipers powder coated red. Nothing over the top but they look much better than the bare metal factory calipers. I have driven less than 50 miles so far but initial impression is great. Nice and smooth, they seem to catch a little lower on the pedal but that can be due to how fresh they are and still removing the coating on the rotors. Since the rotors are drilled and slotted there is a little noise but I suspect that will go away after my 80 mile commute tomorrow. Happy to report the pulsating is gone and braking performance is much better now.

Took it in to a shop today. They said calliper needs replacing. Rear driver side. Said they will put a new calliper, do a brake fluid flush, readjust the hand brake. I said break flush was done just about 3 months ago. It’s a clean light golden yellow color still. The mechanic said still needs to be done to get air out of the system. Seems logical. They quoted $740+tax. Does that sound reasonable?

I actually replaced drivers rear caliper last year, retaining the original actuator and it was perfectly fine since then until suddenly the parking brake failure this year. Old caliper wasn't moving correctly so I ended up smelling and seeing the smoke driving home one day.

Why do I have to screw in the brake calipers with the world's stupidest Phillips?

Originally thought it was a seized caliper. Car needed a brake job as rotors have corroded away so I replaced calipers, rotors and pads on the front. Symptoms: Caliper on front right doesn't release fully. Audible drag, vibration, heat etc. If i stop and pump the breaks (hard) two or three times it releases (50% of the time). So if it doesn't, pump again. Conversely, light application to the brakes results in the caliper not releasing. Drag strength varies. Sometimes it's slight and causes a slight squeal and light vibration at speed. Sometimes the car won't move when put into drive (it's an automatic).