Brake caliper WILWOOD or OEM Volkswagen

Okay actually got some stuff done this weekend. Got the new rear spindles, refurbished backing plates, rotors, metal lines and soft lines, re conditioned original calipers…sure I’ll be revisiting these lol.

I purposely upgraded my NB’s braking and suspension to race-ready standards because I commute… a LOT.

I have come to realize there are others on the road who are absurdly inept behind the wheel and want every tool at my avail to avoid them. I have fully adjustable Meister-R’s on all four corners and Willwood calipers in the front. I had to put them to the test when someone did a no-look lane change into my lane with ZERO clearance and I was required to stomp on the brakes to keep from hitting them. The Wilwoods earned their keep that night.

So if you don't want to spend all that money on the full setup, a Mk7 Golf R caliper is direct bolt on fit to the Arteon. I spent $200 for calipers on EBay, $100 for a rebuild kit, $80 for new OE pads and $40 to reline the discs. Bolted right up.

If you get a wilwood superlite caliper, the pads will be cheaper and are 20mm thick. They aren’t a top of the line caliper but should be more than enough. Also you can run endurance pads. I use raybestos st43 although those seem hard to get now. Pagid rsl29 or ebc sr11 will be endurance pads with similar or slightly less mu.

I have wilwood's forged dynapro 6 brake calipers and the pads wildwood suggest for that setup and I stop on a dime ngl but even when I had a stock FiST the braking never seemed to crazy tho

All brake components are already bought.

Took it in to a shop today. They said calliper needs replacing. Rear driver side. Said they will put a new calliper, do a brake fluid flush, readjust the hand brake. I said break flush was done just about 3 months ago. It’s a clean light golden yellow color still. The mechanic said still needs to be done to get air out of the system. Seems logical. They quoted $740+tax. Does that sound reasonable?

I actually replaced drivers rear caliper last year, retaining the original actuator and it was perfectly fine since then until suddenly the parking brake failure this year. Old caliper wasn't moving correctly so I ended up smelling and seeing the smoke driving home one day.

Why do I have to screw in the brake calipers with the world's stupidest Phillips?

Originally thought it was a seized caliper. Car needed a brake job as rotors have corroded away so I replaced calipers, rotors and pads on the front. Symptoms: Caliper on front right doesn't release fully. Audible drag, vibration, heat etc. If i stop and pump the breaks (hard) two or three times it releases (50% of the time). So if it doesn't, pump again. Conversely, light application to the brakes results in the caliper not releasing. Drag strength varies. Sometimes it's slight and causes a slight squeal and light vibration at speed. Sometimes the car won't move when put into drive (it's an automatic).