Owner reviews for brake discs

Maybe i'm pessimistic...I go by Steinberg's law: He beleived Murphy was an optimist......... When you sit in training with the Germans they obsess about every little tolerance, and potential problem and rotor wear & pad wear cause caliper pistons to come out further than they like and are a possible issue. (Piston gets cocked in its cylinder, seen it happen.) Eventually it rubs off........I raced 911s 's for 17 straight seasons, raced nascar Modifieds, and road raced Superbikes until recently.....I prefer to not have the possibility of some part not being as good as it ought to be when its my equipment...... Most people do not want to spend any $$ if they can avoid it, I get that too, been there before. Parts are cheap in the big picture, so I like all new and matching stuff so I can use it to the max without worrying until its time to do it again. I hear you about car knowledge, I don't profess to know everything, but when you do stuff 1000's of times on all types of vehicles, you do actually learn a little something... I will always replace my rotors, pads and lines if needed together, I respect your way for you. I think that the engineers may be overly cautious, but I'm going with them every time. By the way, i have burnt pads up and cracked rotors on the 911s as I am an extreme braker at the track, it was the only way to pass the faster cars, and you aren't out there to lose...(last 2 years -21 class wins, 18 2nds & 4 3rds) The 911 brakes in the 60s, 70, & 80s were not as good as they are now, they have evolved into stupendous brakes, but anything 1 man can build, another can break....... Our Roadrace motorcycles never got a patched tire for obvious reasons - 190+ on Daytona banks, but I'm good with a properly done inside tire repair patch on cars. lastly, the people on this board are driving a performance car and most drive them hard, so there would be no such thing as too much maintenance or overkill......I feel after all these years the German cars are the best engineered and with that there are tradeoffs, higher parts cost is a prominent one......I think VW is not too bad in that area compared to others...i'm good with $200 a set of rotors, some aren't..... I do not think the recommendation for matched set replacement is about selling more parts or the $$, they 100% believe that is the proper way to do the repair based on their design & knowledge of their product. I'm good with that. By the way measuring for enough thickness is fine, but as rotors should always be true & flat with new pads, that means turning and if they are close to undersize, now we are back to:::::::replacing them http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm to old, so i just freaking buy them put them on & I'm good for 30K + miles again..... Happy Wednesday!!!!!!

i have been told at the dealer that new thickness is approx 25 mm, and replacement size is 23 mm... VW recommends they be done together, but backyard experts & penny pinchers feel that it isn't necessary...... I would never take a chance for the $200 or so that rotors cost it just isn't worth it. if you can't afford $200 for the most critical safety system on your car, perhaps you should take the bus until you can... Very small diameter diferences cause degradation of brake performance, witness when the pads are half worn how low the fluid goes down....that is compensating for the pad wear and ROTOR wear as well......tires & brakes are all that saves your butt in the day-to-day world of insanity out there, don't be foolish.

Contrary to what some people think, the rotors are designed to be replaced when the pads have fully worn down. The tolerance for allowable thickness on our rotors is very small. I don't know the exact number off the top of my head, but IIRC the front rotors on your Jetta are 25mm thick when brand new and the minimum thickness is 23mm. That's not a lot of wiggle room. When the pads are fully gone the rotors will be very close to minimum thickness. You can mic the rotors to test the thickness, but made sure you get past the \"lip\" on the very edge of the rotor or you will get a false reading. Personally, I say don't mess around with brakes. If you only have a few thousand miles on the rotor, than fine - keep it. But if the pads are gone, the rotors are gone too. On a somewhat related note, I just did the brakes on a 2006 Mini for a friend of mine. The tolerance between min and max thickness was only 1.6mm on the front rotors! That's tight.

I only upgraded the rears to Brembo cross drilled rotors with PBR deluxe pads. It eliminated the rear dust tremendously. Braking improved too.

Brembo rotors will resist cracking because the holes are cast into the rotor instead of drilled after the rotor has been cast.

i have the cd zims and they don't make noise. these are the newer small holes version.

I had crossdrilled Zimmermans on my Golf...didn't notice any noise from them..but did notice faster pad wear ....

The Brembo Sport kits are an introductory performance solution combined with an appealing aesthetic application. The Sport level is comprised of a 1-piece drilled or slotted and solid or vented rotors, according to your original manufacturers requirements. High carbon cast iron metallurgy insures top performance, noise reduction and improved comfort due to higher dampening coefficients. Cross-Drilled or Slotted Rotors: Clears gasses, cleans pads for better \"bite\". Attractive, Anti-Corrosive Finish: For a bold, aggressive appearance.

Both brands of rotors are made by the same vender. Ive used both and there is no difference. ATE is another story,dont ever buy ATE,oem replacement crap.

You know.... I thought I was immune to the brake issue on the Routan until about 3 hours ago. Was on the freeway and had to brake somewhat hard for traffic. And there it was.... very noticeable shake of warped front rotors. 9300 miles on it. I am super light on my brakes. Almost all of my driving is freeway driving. These rotors are clearly crap.