Volkswagen parts reviews

So far (300 miles) I have noticed the following; 1. Bridgestone tires seem to have more wet grip than the Kuhmo's

My 2008 MKV R32 has the exact same brakes you guys do, but carries 200+ lbs more car I did 3 RT on the Dragon up & back to the Lodge...around 8/10s, no brake fade or issues and the DSG was in Sport I just did the following at 46,750 miles - 4 new OEM rotors - $270 - I never turn rotors, they're a heat sink no sense making them less so. Hawk HPS pads - $210 - they dust about 95% less than OEM, work way better and no noise Goodridge SS lines- $110 - because SS gives a firmer pedal and less likely to burst Motul - $ 20? - because I was doing a fluid change anyway The braking effectiveness is noticeably better in feel & deceleration with no noise, no dust & no squealing I have used this same upgrade on Porsche 911s, Mustang Cobra & GT and always get the same outcome If you are overpowering your brakes, your driving skill set needs to be corrected as that's hard on equipment and ultimately slower... I raced 25 years in 911's and smoothness is faster everytime If you're going to track extensively, take a driving school, and then go hog wild making mods, once you understand the weak areas and how to upgrade to overcome them, Once you can use your stock setup to it's limit, then start making changes - hint - most people with no driving instruction don't even come close to utilizing their car's potential unless its a Tercel - a lesson I learned by doing Bondurant twice and various PCA schools and SCCA & IMSA clinics The weak point is always us in the beginning - Seat time practice + seat time is the key to happiness

Thiis is what I am contemplating for under $5k strictly for my Golf R to suit my driving needs in the Rockies , New Mexico pleasure driving in the spring and summer, also driving around BC, between Whistler and Kalowna 1) No Engine mods during warranty period or until 2020 ( free !) 2) HPA-Coil Overs ($1500 installed) 3) HPA- Haldex Controller ($1500 installed) 4) New Carbontech 1521 brake pads on OEM rotors ($250 installed) 5) Audi TTRS Brake Hoses ($300 installed) 6) Motul RBF600 brake fluid ($100 installed) 7) HPA-Short Shifter ($250 installed) I am thinking this would not void either the engine or drive train warranty's

Next battery I am going to put in my Passat is going to be something made by Exide . I mentioned before that I changed my OE battery in the winter 2007-2008, was concerned with low temperatures of this winter, but battery seems to do very well, started at 9*F and still work without a problem.

Rallye 1.8T you are the man! Thanks for the tip and saving me a lot of time and money. The mk5 312x25mm rotors work on my setup. Only thing I have to do is run one thin washer between the bracket and spindle.

Nokians on her FWD CC now. It's a beast in the snow.

Oh and I missed on letter on the spark plug it's BKR6EOUP. It's a NGK "R" type.

My oem battery lasted from '08 to '13. The last few weeks the car would hesistate to start. The starter would click click, dashboard lights would flicker, and the ECU and CANBUS would reset. I'd lose the auto windows and see my trip odo reset, but the battery read 12.5V and alternator read just fine too. I waited until the day I had to jump-start the car then drove to VW and bought a new OEM battery; I believe it's a Varta. After I installed new battery the starting issues went away, but I got stuck where the car would go "clickiddy clickiddy clickiddy click" and dash lights flickered like mad; new battery too! I took my multi-tool and started beating on the connections, leads, and grounds. I found the ground wire to be a bit corroded. After cleaning the terminals with 120 grit and a whopping dose of dielectric, car starts like brand new. The starter is pretty tough.

I've used mobil 1 20-50 for the last three oil changes and had really bad ticking noise from the head. This last oil change I used casterol GTX and have had a lot less ticking since. I'm no longer sold on mobil 1 for the rocco.

When i had my quads (generic AutoPal 7", OEM-replacement, but not OEM hella), I had a problem where, if i properly aimed the lows, the highs were up in the trees.