Reviews of OEM Audi parts For Business

My car has smaller brakes than yours, so I was able to downsize to a 245 45R17 for winter use from the 255 35R19 summers and the car is so much smoother but still can handle just as good.

I managed to get my hand on a set of MK1 Audi TT front and rear brakes for a steal, also round the corner to my work which was even better. This takes my front brakes from 288mm up to 312mm and takes my rear brakes from 232mm solid discs to 256mm vented discs.

I absolutely think that you could get an allroad and use it for daily duties (mine is an 02 2.7T auto) but there are some things you should know and take care of. There will always be something that needs to be looked at.

I had my S3 in last Friday and the dealership managed to fix my tick/click. I took a video of the noise before taking it in for service but it didn't turn out as well as nikhsub1's; however, the noise was almost identical to nikhsub1's but mine only happened when turning to the right. I would hazard a guess that it may be the same issue some are experiencing with the R. I didn't get the chance to talk to the technician directly but the service writer described the issue as a loose pin or tab on the brakes that was making contact with the rotor.

There is a small oil filter in the cam shafts bracket. That fails, I read somewhere Audi issued a recall to replace them, but VW didn't, even though the part is the same and same likelihood to fail no matter the brand of the card.

I saw a review of the GTI with the PP and the reviewer said the brakes on the PP are the same brakes used on the Audi S3.

An old Audi belt motor goes 240k and the belt is still holding. I had a 2013 A4 2.0 that stretched the ~~belt~~ chain* at 70k and the valves kissed the pistons.

Replace battery with OEM battery AFS still in operable on and off.

As someone who has a TTRS, the brakes blow. Heavy, overheat, poor feel, and expensive rotors/pads.

Turns out the issue was a outer CV joint failure without any warning clicking noises etc.