Volkswagen parts reviews

I had the same issue in my 2016 Sportwagen at ~120k miles, oil changed every 5k. Based upon my web sleuthing, there IS an issue with 2015 and earlier 1.8 engines and oil consumption. Something about a bad ring design. My car was using upwards of 1qt per 800/1000 miles depending on the amount of highway driving. No oil spots on driveway, no blue smoke at startup or any throttle application or not. I DID have a "damp" appearing spot on the bottom inside of the tailpipe and black speckles/dirt on the tailgate. Mechanic told me that the catalytic converter can hide a significant amount of oil use. I tried an oil flush (two) and did not notice an appreciable change, and was quoted upwards of $10k for just an engine. There is a BG flush kit, sold to "professionals only", that is upwards of $250 on the big online retailer site- comes with what looks like 2 gallons of stuff. I did not use this, and the shop I have the work usually performed at refused to do it (I understand their reasons). As a "Hail Mary", I did the following: Parked it on ramps. Pulled the plugs- Number 2 was obviously the problem. You should pull your plugs and look at them. Cut a piece of 1/4" OD copper tubing long enough to get into the cylinder, and put a little bend at the end of it Previously ordered GM "Top Engine Cleaner" and Ballistol (primarily used as a weapon cleaner, but non toxic). Looked into cylinders with a borescope. Yup, #2 was the worst. Liberally sprayed the GM cleaner through the copper line into the cylinders. It foams, so you can hear it fill up. Turned engine over by hand with a socket and ratchet. Sprayed some more. Waited, then sprayed Ballistol in there. Turned engine over by hand. Sprayed some more. Repeated the process a few times a day, for 3 days. Looked into cylinders again and saw carbon removal from top of piston. Before start, sucked out excess fluid from the tops of the cylinders with a Harbor Freight brake bleeder. Installed new plugs. Drained oil where it sat. Installed new oil and filter, plus BG oil flush, ran at idle for 30 minutes (warm-up, plus 15 minutes). Changed oil and filter again, using Mobil 5W40 Euro oil. Problem appeared worse after checking oil after ~250 miles of highway driving. Was not happy. Waited it out (nothing to lose), and saw oil consumption decrease over time. Added about 1.5 qt in total over 3k miles. Changed the oil again, and have almost no change on the dipstick after 1k miles. So, I got lucky, and the problem is fixed. I have not taken the time to pull #2 plug and look again at it or the piston top, but in any event, oil consumption is WAY down. No more "damp" tailpipe and if there is black fuzz on the tailgate, it is much finer and harder to see. I am also using Top Tier fuel and have added a couple of cans of Gumout cleaner with PEA. I have noticed a significant improvement in idle quality with these things. Not sure if I will go to 3k oil changes, as obviously 5k was not working. I do NOT idle the car much at all outside of driving/traffic (no sitting with the car running needlessly).

Thanks for the quick reply I'm run ing 5w40 mobil 1 European spec oil ans mobil one extended performance filter I change it every 5k

Drove it for a day and the alternator crapped out. Installed a new one asap.

As was mentioned already, the Bilstein B4 is available for the front and rear of the Atlas. I have a full set of B4s on my mkV Jetta and they are fantastic. Quite firm but still comfortable. They rebound once and the party's over, unlike the Atlas which pogos down the road.

Bilstein claims around 10% stiffer dampening and rebound over OEM. I've had both B6 and B4's on my Passat, and the B4's was something I preferred more.

what have you tried so far? I had moderate success with Liqumoly Engine Flush, following directions on the bottle. At 100K miles, I went through 1qt after 4000 miles and i've cut it down to about half of that after the flush.

I've always used the Pentosin equivalent in all my Volkswagens and Audis. Pentosin E/SF. Pentosin SF is G12 (pink) -2005, Pentosin E is G13 (violet) 2006 onwards. Safe to mix with factory fill, of course can always go to the dealer for coolant too. These are concentrate, so you do have to mix 50/50 with distilled water though

When I rebuilt my ABA block for my Cabriolet, I was pretty bummed when I discovered it was using oil. Not much, maybe 1/2 quart per month of driving it daily. Like I said, I was pretty bummed because I figured I had done something incorrectly. I even re did the valve stem seals, but that did not help.

They replaced the water pump after it failed around 35k on my 2017 alltrack.

Mine failed in my 2015 Golf after 11,000km.