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I've owned a 2011 Nissan Sentra since it only had 10 miles. It's been 15 years and the only repairs I have had to do were my own mistakes (hitting curbs and such). I've only ever changed the bands once, but never touched anything else on the engine. The AC/Heater work the same as day 1. One of my windows won't go down with its own button, but I can still control it from the driver side. I've done basic maintenence, oil changes, new brake pads, new windshield wipers, etc. But haven't needed any major work done. Even the batteries have lasted in the car (though this specific year and model had a recall for faulty battery terminals).
The first 10 years or so, I drove it EVERYWHERE in CA. Road trips every weekend and driving through not small car friendly terrain.
In the 15 years, I crashed it twice. No serious injuries and no car blowing up (I've heard so many rumors that Nissans blow in accidents.. they don't anymore than any other car would). It's running a little funky now for the past 2 years, but again, completely my fault. The last crash was full speed at a curb and damaged the mainframe.
It's a little over 200,000 miles and I'm finally looking to get a new car, but im scared I won't find one as reliable. I've had this car since I was 18, I'm 32 now!
2014 Mazda 3 with 322,000 kms, it's doing fine. I'm still on original engine, transmission and starter. I use it almost daily in traffic. The only problem is that the battery is slightly more costly than a standard one, which offsets the miniscule fuel savings you're getting from the system
I have this car. Most important is that below -12C, the gas engine stays on, and won't let you drive around on electric alone. That accounts for several months of driving in our winters. Secondly, even in temps below +10C, you have less access to the battery's energy, so your range drops even independently from the usual cold temp range losses.
I decided to get a 2019 titan at 55k miles haven’t had any major problems! But they do have an electrical problem with the battery. Fix: disconnect a grey plug that’s on the negative cable! It regulates the alternator voltage. It can cause the battery to fail quicker over time! But I like that the truck is always running on 8 cyl and still uses a power steering instead of electric steering!
We have a 2023 Rogue and had to have the original battery replaced only a few months in. Had the run around of multiple long battery tests.
My brother and I both have/had 6 speed 2015 Mazda3 (me the hatchback, him the sedan), and both of us had terrible issues with the Mazda brand batteries.
Only problem was when a battery blew and that totalled my last Leaf after 154.000 km (98000miles) .
These are excellent cars but for some reason the batteries they use are bad. I had a 21 Mazda 3. The battery failed in 2023. They replaced it under warranty. The new battery lasted literally less than 6 months.
Mazda OEM batteries are trash. Always have been. 35 years with Mazda and we stocked a ton of them.
The only time I had issues with my battery was the original one when it was on its death bed. But I remember needing to clean the posts a few times and it would start right up. Never was left with a check engine light but when it acted up it would do weird things here and there.
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In March 2026 on PartReview, battery OEM Nissan were overall better than OEM Mazda.
Battery OEM Nissan and OEM Mazda were equally popular according to data in March 2026.
By vote balance, battery OEM Nissan surpassed OEM Mazda:
By number of reviews, battery OEM Mazda surpassed OEM Nissan:
In March 2026, according to PartReview, battery OEM Nissan and OEM Mazda have not taken top places in car-specific ratings. You can help by adding your review about these manufacturers.
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Also available: comparisons of battery OEM Mazda with: OPTIMA, Varta, Bosch, OEM Subaru, OEM Volkswagen, YUASA, Tesla, Duralast, Exide, OEM BMW.
You can also see who is better among other battery manufacturers: OPTIMA or Varta, OPTIMA or Bosch, OPTIMA or OEM Subaru, OPTIMA or OEM Volkswagen, OPTIMA or YUASA.