Battery OEM Nissan or OEM BMW

I've owned a 2011 Nissan Sentra since it only had 10 miles. It's been 15 years and the only repairs I have had to do were my own mistakes (hitting curbs and such). I've only ever changed the bands once, but never touched anything else on the engine. The AC/Heater work the same as day 1. One of my windows won't go down with its own button, but I can still control it from the driver side. I've done basic maintenence, oil changes, new brake pads, new windshield wipers, etc. But haven't needed any major work done. Even the batteries have lasted in the car (though this specific year and model had a recall for faulty battery terminals).

The first 10 years or so, I drove it EVERYWHERE in CA. Road trips every weekend and driving through not small car friendly terrain.

In the 15 years, I crashed it twice. No serious injuries and no car blowing up (I've heard so many rumors that Nissans blow in accidents.. they don't anymore than any other car would). It's running a little funky now for the past 2 years, but again, completely my fault. The last crash was full speed at a curb and damaged the mainframe.

It's a little over 200,000 miles and I'm finally looking to get a new car, but im scared I won't find one as reliable. I've had this car since I was 18, I'm 32 now!

But during the ownership i found it really reliable, the only things i needed fixing were: battery (it was the original one over 7 years old), tyres and brake discs/pads (consumables on any car) and the regular oil/filter services.

The battery is most likely to outlive the rest of the car. No need to worry. If the car has enough range for your daily need, then keeping it will be the best option.

The original Nissan battery in my 2015 still lives on in my 78 vette. I replaced the Nissan battery because I was going on a 7600 mile total trip and didn't want to take chances.

The only issue we’ve had with it is recently a bunch of warning lights started popping up randomly but all at the same time. I assumed it was a wiring issue or something since none of the systems it said were disabled actually were. Dealership couldnt replicate it so it took a couple weeks of bringing it back and forth every time it happened before they were able to see anything on their end. Replaced the battery and it’s been fine since.

BMW 3 series in the right rear panel. The location is ok, but the box is just enough to slip in a group 49, and there is an air vent hose on the forward side, and a clamp on the rear bottom that is impossible to reach with anything but little elf hands. Then there's also the starter cable, battery management and regular wires running in the same area, all hopelessly in the way..

I decided to get a 2019 titan at 55k miles haven’t had any major problems! But they do have an electrical problem with the battery. Fix: disconnect a grey plug that’s on the negative cable! It regulates the alternator voltage. It can cause the battery to fail quicker over time! But I like that the truck is always running on 8 cyl and still uses a power steering instead of electric steering!

Only problem was when a battery blew and that totalled my last Leaf after 154.000 km (98000miles) .

My new BMW X3 was reliable.

It reliably would NOT start whenever the temperature dropped below -20C, even with a battery tender on it. The dealer couldn’t find anything wrong with it.

The battery lasted about two years. I had a company car at the time and only drove the BMW on my days off, and didn't drive long or far. The short, infrequent drives basically never allowed the battery to completely charge, resulting in it's early death.