Battery OEM Nissan or OEM Volkswagen

I've owned a 2011 Nissan Sentra since it only had 10 miles. It's been 15 years and the only repairs I have had to do were my own mistakes (hitting curbs and such). I've only ever changed the bands once, but never touched anything else on the engine. The AC/Heater work the same as day 1. One of my windows won't go down with its own button, but I can still control it from the driver side. I've done basic maintenence, oil changes, new brake pads, new windshield wipers, etc. But haven't needed any major work done. Even the batteries have lasted in the car (though this specific year and model had a recall for faulty battery terminals).

The first 10 years or so, I drove it EVERYWHERE in CA. Road trips every weekend and driving through not small car friendly terrain.

In the 15 years, I crashed it twice. No serious injuries and no car blowing up (I've heard so many rumors that Nissans blow in accidents.. they don't anymore than any other car would). It's running a little funky now for the past 2 years, but again, completely my fault. The last crash was full speed at a curb and damaged the mainframe.

It's a little over 200,000 miles and I'm finally looking to get a new car, but im scared I won't find one as reliable. I've had this car since I was 18, I'm 32 now!

Starts fine even in -4F weather. Will probably swap it this year with another OE battery as oddly i have better luck with OE batteries and they tend to be cheaper than Autozone/Orielys/Advanced.

2017 got a new battery in 2023 before winter, didn't have a no start issue but figured it was time. Went with a dealer battery, was only $138ish for the 72ah upgrade and replaced it in their parking lot to get the core charge back.

Update: it was just the battery, everything works fine after replacement and coding/adaptation. No error codes. Thanks everyone

I decided to get a 2019 titan at 55k miles haven’t had any major problems! But they do have an electrical problem with the battery. Fix: disconnect a grey plug that’s on the negative cable! It regulates the alternator voltage. It can cause the battery to fail quicker over time! But I like that the truck is always running on 8 cyl and still uses a power steering instead of electric steering!

We have a 2023 Rogue and had to have the original battery replaced only a few months in. Had the run around of multiple long battery tests.

I’ve had my id3 5 years now and had very few problems with the car or charging. I’ll get maybe 180 miles on the motorway but close to 240 miles cross country. Manchester to Sheffield to Nottingham and back to Manchester left me with around 50 miles range, but I can’t get from Manchester to London, or Manchester to Glasgow without charging.

2022 ID.4 in Canada. Have had two replaced. Luckily when it happened it was in my driveway for all three times. Hooked up a charger to the 12v for a few hours and it started like nothing was wrong.

The battery VW uses in the ID.4 is trash. I had it replaced under warranty in my 2021 after about 2 years when my car died in the garage and I had to get assistance. The tow truck driver got it going with a jump starter. It\u2019s now just out of warranty in year 4 and I get the \u201cLow 12V\u201d warning on cold days.

On the day of delivery itself, the car wouldn\u2019t start. The dealership jump-started it and said there was a small battery issue, assuring me that it won\u2019t happen again. But from that day onwards, the vehicle has never been reliable.