Reviews of OEM Porsche parts For Business

not sure if it helps....but my cayenne turbo has bag over strut design....obviously i run it 365 a year. Never a problem... i think a big failure is water in the system....make sure you have a drier on the compressor

Rear calipers are a Porsche 944T, the disks in a VW Corrado / Golf G60, 280mm, 274mm lowered to the clamps are anchored with an adapter for Grinling54, is to lower a bit with the grinder, but it is simple

The 'Porsche Approved Oil' comment reminded me that using a thicker oil (5w40) than the original recommendation (0w40) greatly reduced the seepage issue in my Boxster.

I currently have 12.3" Audi TT rotors with Porsche 911 (996) calipers. Those brakes works fine, but I want smaller brakes so I can fit 15" wheels.

I can't tell you how many times I get techs at my counter showing me fouled aftermarket plugs from these cars. Nothing works better than the OE plug with these cars. We have a 993 TT with a pair of K24's on it that will destroy anything but a factory plug. Just put in the OE plug and ignore anything else when it comes to your Boxster.

Maybe i'm pessimistic...I go by Steinberg's law: He beleived Murphy was an optimist......... When you sit in training with the Germans they obsess about every little tolerance, and potential problem and rotor wear & pad wear cause caliper pistons to come out further than they like and are a possible issue. (Piston gets cocked in its cylinder, seen it happen.) Eventually it rubs off........I raced 911s 's for 17 straight seasons, raced nascar Modifieds, and road raced Superbikes until recently.....I prefer to not have the possibility of some part not being as good as it ought to be when its my equipment...... Most people do not want to spend any $$ if they can avoid it, I get that too, been there before. Parts are cheap in the big picture, so I like all new and matching stuff so I can use it to the max without worrying until its time to do it again. I hear you about car knowledge, I don't profess to know everything, but when you do stuff 1000's of times on all types of vehicles, you do actually learn a little something... I will always replace my rotors, pads and lines if needed together, I respect your way for you. I think that the engineers may be overly cautious, but I'm going with them every time. By the way, i have burnt pads up and cracked rotors on the 911s as I am an extreme braker at the track, it was the only way to pass the faster cars, and you aren't out there to lose...(last 2 years -21 class wins, 18 2nds & 4 3rds) The 911 brakes in the 60s, 70, & 80s were not as good as they are now, they have evolved into stupendous brakes, but anything 1 man can build, another can break....... Our Roadrace motorcycles never got a patched tire for obvious reasons - 190+ on Daytona banks, but I'm good with a properly done inside tire repair patch on cars. lastly, the people on this board are driving a performance car and most drive them hard, so there would be no such thing as too much maintenance or overkill......I feel after all these years the German cars are the best engineered and with that there are tradeoffs, higher parts cost is a prominent one......I think VW is not too bad in that area compared to others...i'm good with $200 a set of rotors, some aren't..... I do not think the recommendation for matched set replacement is about selling more parts or the $$, they 100% believe that is the proper way to do the repair based on their design & knowledge of their product. I'm good with that. By the way measuring for enough thickness is fine, but as rotors should always be true & flat with new pads, that means turning and if they are close to undersize, now we are back to:::::::replacing them http://****************.com/smile/emthup.gif I'm to old, so i just freaking buy them put them on & I'm good for 30K + miles again..... Happy Wednesday!!!!!!

I run TT rotors with Boxster calipers. I like this setup very much. Brake pedal is a little firmer than stock and they are easy to modulate on the street.

I've already had my 3.2 TT at the track (same brakes) and after the 3rd session (out of 5) the brakes began to fade. Also by upgrading you would also get a weight saving although with these HUGE brakes prob the same (lol). Actually I still think even with these you'd save 20-30lbs for both corners.

With the old starter I got a couple slow cranks. with the new starter I get nothing. I think it has something to do with this relay. Oh, and P.S. after pulling out the old starter I tested it on the bench and it won't spin, so it's definitely bad.

I want to avoid the Porsche engine because last time the timing belt broke it cost me $2000 to get things repaired. Plus I don't want to constantly be nervous about it breaking. It's not just the belt though - the Porsche engine is aluminum with free-standning cylinders, no liners, balance shafts which have their own timing belt which runs right next to the main timing belt, etc. Not to mention parts are super expensive.