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i did the LUK clutch kit and fly wheel, ppl on acurazine recommend to not use the throw out bearing from the kit and to get the OEM one, also oem rear main seal. that’s what i ended up doing and clutch is great 8k miles so far so good knock on wood.
Throwout bearing on my 2000 TJ blew at 195k, but there was probably 50-80k left on the clutch plate. My last XJ was over 240k and had zero issues (different transmission but I believe the plates were similar).
You don't mention the year of your Wrangler, but my full LuK clutch kit was $135, got a cheap transmission jack from Harbor Freight for $80, had to order a new clutch fork clip for $2.50, that was it.
Valeo HD 100% is the only option you should consider based on your driving habits. It can hold more power than stock, and won’t cause the annoying rattles a single mass flywheel setup will cause.
Last month, I replaced the clutch kit and DMF on my 1999 PD115 Passat with a LuK kit, and it was also slipping in 4th and 5th when I floored it (stock tune). After about a week of casual driving, it bedded in, and I had no problems since.
The clutch kit, buy the luk kit pn 07233 on rock auto. It's $500 and change with shipping. Plan a couple of days on the weekend to r&r the transmission.
I do suggest the Valeo HD clutch kit while you are in there....you could maybe skip replacing the flywheel if it is in good condition, but the more proper thing is to replace it as well. The whole kit is $300 with a new slave cylinder and stainless line.
Retail on OES (Luk) -not cheap-o part) clutch kit is $400 (RETAIL) comes w slave cyl as well. Master cyl is about $100 retail.
upgrading to the Valeo HD kit is your best course of action when the time comes. Holds more power, is smooth, and doesnt rattle like the single mass flywheels will.
I've been buying the kits on eBay (munirater brand) and they say LUK on them, I'm guessing maybe someone is remanufacturing them, I can't imagine that they're selling LUK kits on eBay for $380. Or they are knockoff or counterfeit? They work fine.
I replaced the disc with LUKs kit and also had my flywheel resurfaced to be safe. The new set-up has about 300 miles on it and continues to slip. Most noticeably around 2700 - 3400 rpm in 3rd and 4th gear. I can feel it seem to slip then catch and gain a magical 15 hp. I have not allowed the clutch to slip enough to have glazed the clutch disc so that's not a possibility, and my "auto" adjusting clutch cable seems to be okay (I can push the transmission arm downwards and the clutch cable spring returns it to the 9 o'clock position). Proper torque specs and sequence were followed and everything was extremely clean upon installation. Also there are no leaks so there is no fluid getting on the disc. New clutch disc, re-surfaced flywheel, new rear main seal, new pressure plate.
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