Reviews of Sachs parts For Business

After installing the Sachs clutch kit I didn't reinstall the helper spring because the pedal force level was still just right. As far as gear rattle in neutral I have zero rattle (same as when stock).

I did the Sachs Race Engineering clutch kit and a new factory DMF at 25k miles when I was getting slip with Stage 1. The new clutch has zero noise and is exactly the same sound as the original, which was my goal. With the helper spring removed the pedal force is about 25% increased but still very easy to operate. Initially the pedal force was high and almost on off operation. After 500 mile it smoothed out very nicely.

id reccomend sachs performace kit DMF version. It holds 550nm (400lb/ft) of torque and keeps the stock dual mass flywheel.

Okay - so I now have 25,000 miles on this clutch kit, with zero issues. Grabs strong, and with my bleeder block and clutch pedal spring removal the engagement point is clear and feels like it should. I don't remember what the old clutch felt like anymore, but I have been in stop/go traffic hundreds of times with this clutch kit and I think the extra grabbiness/stiffness of the pedal is the only minor downside to this kit. It's not unmanageable though!

I did some extensive research and found the Sachs stage 2 SMF kit. SMFs handle the higher RPM shifts better and holds up to 530nm. You will notice that although the pedal is stiffer, you have more feel. The lighter flywheel makes the engine rev quicker and becomes far more responsive. Of course, you are dropping a significant amount of rotating mass, so your car will accelerate slightly quicker. Yes, it is a little more expensive, and it does sound a little diesely at idle, but if you actually drive the car, it isn't even a question in my mind. I have had mine for around 30k miles, and it still grabs HARD with a stage 1+ APR tune. I ordered mine straight from Germany.

I went with the Sachs SRE Clutch kit with Sachs DMF. The clutch kit is claimed to hold 400ft/lbs of tq. It added a little stiffness over the stock clutch which is exactly what I wanted and it holds stage 2 power very well. The shifts are smooth like the stock clutch and there is no added noise with the DMF.

I've had this TTRS setup running for 5k miles on my Golf R. Clutch kit: 07K-141-015-BX and clutch disc: Sachs 1878005146 . Overall compared to stock clutch with restrictor removed: Engagement is noticeably stiffer and the engagement area is a little \"narrower\". In my opinion it takes the clutch from being EXTREMELY light with the restrictor removed to feeling more like a \"normal\" car. Overall the change is not overly dramatic and OEM -> OEM no restrictor was a bigger change than OEM no restrictor -> TTRS no restrictor. In addition to not slipping, engagement with the TTRS PP is a lot more crisp and reassuring overall.

So after a year of having the tune, the stock clutch started giving me problems. I decided to bite the bullet and buy the Sachs SRE clutch kit for the MK7 GTI. I just got the car back today and drove it around for an hour or so after picking it up. FIRST IMPRESSIONS FEEL - Wow, the clutch pedal is like an on/off switch right now. It was SUPER stiff and springy when I first started driving it, but after driving for an hour it I am already executing perfect shifts again and the pedal has softened up a tiny tiny bit. Still a big change - and still going to make sitting in traffic a bit more cumbersome unless it softens up a bit more. PERFORMANCE - Still in the break-in period, so I haven't given it the full beans yet. But man oh man, if you want lightning fast shifts and perfect downshifts, this clutch is a willing dance partner. NOISE - Zero, zip, nada. No different than stock. If anything, my stock clutch was a little more chattery. VERY PLEASED AT THIS. VIBRATION - refer to "noise" Overall, I am very pleased so far. When I first got in the car I was a bit shocked at how fast/stiff the pedal action was - but after driving it for a while I found that I was shifting the car faster and cleaner than I did with the stock clutch.

I've got a 2003 Jetta 1.8T GLS Manual (canadian model, made in mexico), and the clutch burnt out, was slipping and was trying to sell it to a family member, well they burnt the clutch out on the test drive and now I just want to get a stock replacement (so don't need a racing clutch, etc;)

I'm not very knowledgeable when it comes to car repair, I did my research, called around, the VW dealer tells me the "high cost" the local repair shops quote me something else, everyone has different parts, and part numbers.

If anyone could give me some feedback? I have 2 mechanics that told me if I buy the part, and save money they will install it. But I want to make sure I get the correct part.

Here are the following clutch kits that I've found:

*$379 Sachs W0133-1891446 Clutch Kit*

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Volkswagen/Jetta/Sachs/Clutch_Kit/2003/GLS/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/W0133-1891446.html

(looks like it includes the flywheel + conversion components, other cheaper ones do not).

*$295 Valeo W0133-1889745 Clutch Kit*

http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/sku/Volkswagen/Jetta/Valeo/Clutch_Kit/2003/GLS/4_Cyl_1-dot-8L/W0133-1889745.html

(no flywheel kit, but a little cheaper)

The site 'matches' my VW when I put in the details, however I'm not sure what to look for here.

Thoughts? Would appreciate any feedback :)

Now I have discovered something interesting. I have twice had to remove one of the Sachs shocks because the stop clip came out of the groove in the piston. I figured I must have overtightened the nut on top and pushed it off, so I only finger tightened it the second time. It slipped again. I looked at the clip groove on the Sachs piston and was shocked to see that instead of being square cut like the Bilstein, it was taper cut which obviously stupid. There is no way this clip is going to stay put unless I am able to modify the groove to give it a ledge for the clip to rest on.