Reviews of OEM Volkswagen parts For Business

You can also try the harder OEM VW pad in the rear. They'll take longer to wear down than the soft version of the OEM pads and generate less dust. I installed them on mine last year and there is no layer of black dust between car washes. The down side I get noise when there is rust on my rotors but that usually goes away after a couple of braking stops.

Since my last service and the speed sensor replaced, no problems to report and have put up 2500KM. The DSG trany seems to work good so far.

got the stock timing belt parts in and replaced the hack job that I had for hte mk1 mount back to all the stock mk4 thicker tdi timing belt - got rid of the 16v style mounts and back to all of the appropriate covers.

Corrado 11 inch brakes should give plenty of stopping power. My Corrado stops on a dime too.

i have the same thing on mine, with rear disks & MKIV calipers, it stops on a dime

i have been told at the dealer that new thickness is approx 25 mm, and replacement size is 23 mm... VW recommends they be done together, but backyard experts & penny pinchers feel that it isn't necessary...... I would never take a chance for the $200 or so that rotors cost it just isn't worth it. if you can't afford $200 for the most critical safety system on your car, perhaps you should take the bus until you can... Very small diameter diferences cause degradation of brake performance, witness when the pads are half worn how low the fluid goes down....that is compensating for the pad wear and ROTOR wear as well......tires & brakes are all that saves your butt in the day-to-day world of insanity out there, don't be foolish.

Contrary to what some people think, the rotors are designed to be replaced when the pads have fully worn down. The tolerance for allowable thickness on our rotors is very small. I don't know the exact number off the top of my head, but IIRC the front rotors on your Jetta are 25mm thick when brand new and the minimum thickness is 23mm. That's not a lot of wiggle room. When the pads are fully gone the rotors will be very close to minimum thickness. You can mic the rotors to test the thickness, but made sure you get past the \"lip\" on the very edge of the rotor or you will get a false reading. Personally, I say don't mess around with brakes. If you only have a few thousand miles on the rotor, than fine - keep it. But if the pads are gone, the rotors are gone too. On a somewhat related note, I just did the brakes on a 2006 Mini for a friend of mine. The tolerance between min and max thickness was only 1.6mm on the front rotors! That's tight.

If your water pump is shot or going you will notice that your car is going to run hotter than ever. If you continuously see that you are overheating this could be the result of a bad water pump. I had to replace my water pump @ 25K when the original pump was removed the plastic impeller inside came out in about 4 pieces. It was completly fubar..

My plastic Water pump went at 40k... Im at 56k now and im switching out for a metal one with my timing belt and everything.

Hmm... I just took the car in for its MoT and although it passed, they noticed that the exhaust was smoky and that oil level had been overfilled. The oil was last changed at the car's 40,000 mile service by the same VW dealer and on the invoice they've listed 9 litres of oil.