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2013-2015 have axle recalls…they’ll get fix free but you’ll need to invest in wheel hubs on the front due to the axles failing it’ll mess up the wheel hubs. Also the sensor on the battery it’s something about sending the correct volts to the alternator that’s a big issue and could cause electrical fires. Was also a recall. Besides that just check the car undercarriage for surface rust on calipers they fail a lot due to abunch of surface rust and debris getting into it over time and it’ll act like it’s seized up but really all the grease is just gone over time. Get good quality ceramic pads these cars squeal like a pig with the cheap ones. Also valve cover gasket is a must always will leak eventually every 30k miles or so. Best bet is getting a 2016 &up tbh
The CRVs I have are a 2010 with 210k miles. AC compressor every 100k miles and an alternator at 200. Brakes at 100k and 160k and 210k, the OEM brakes are amazing. Spark plugs at 100k and 200k and both times still looked new. Still drives amazing and is solid it's better than my 2017 CRV.
Nice. 2011 here (also bought new) but I did all four brakes at 68K miles. They had some life left in them according to the shop, but they just started feeling a tad soft, and my brake pedal was getting a little to close to the floor for comfort.
I've replaced a battery, 2 exhausts and brake pads in that time. Literally that's it, just maintenance and fuel.
Will not go back. Love to quick launch, quiet drive, no maintenance. Still on original disks and PADS at 180,000 km (120k miles)
Last week front passenger brake began making a metal on metal grinding noise. Assumed it was brakes because this vehicle has been a frequent brake pad/rotor-replacee due to the mileage of the car. The brake pads were very low. Drove the car around for about 30mins today and no grinding noise BUT the front passenger was very hot and didn’t smell good.
Oh, I did have rust pop on one of the original brake pads so I had to replace that this spring - very little pad wear though!
After bringing the knuckle back, we reinstalled the brake pads. We had a difficult time getting the pads to sit correctly, specifically with the anti-rattle clips (prongs). Eventually, they seemed to seat properly, and we reattached the pads and caliper.
To be fair Tesla brakes are not great. Combined with regen? Sure it’s adequate, but drive a German vehicle and see what brakes are about.
I had a colleague with brake failure on a model 3. The first thing he did after insurance paying for the crash, and hearing he'd be out of his car for at least 3 months was to order a real car, a Mazda.
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In March 2026 on PartReview, brake pads OEM Honda were overall better than Tesla.
In March 2026 on PartReview, brake pads OEM Honda were overall more popular than Tesla.
By vote balance, brake pads OEM Honda surpassed Tesla:
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In March 2026, according to PartReview, brake pads OEM Honda and Tesla have not taken top places in car-specific ratings. You can help by adding your review about these manufacturers.
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For example, comparisons of brake pads OEM Honda with: EBC, POWER STOP, Akebono, Hawk Performance, Brembo, Ferodo, OEM Volkswagen, Bosch, STOPTECH, Carbotech.
Also available: comparisons of brake pads Tesla with: EBC, POWER STOP, Akebono, Hawk Performance, Brembo, Ferodo, OEM Volkswagen, Bosch, STOPTECH, Carbotech.
You can also see who is better among other brake pads manufacturers: EBC or POWER STOP, EBC or Akebono, EBC or Hawk Performance, Brembo or EBC, Akebono or POWER STOP.