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2013-2015 have axle recalls…they’ll get fix free but you’ll need to invest in wheel hubs on the front due to the axles failing it’ll mess up the wheel hubs. Also the sensor on the battery it’s something about sending the correct volts to the alternator that’s a big issue and could cause electrical fires. Was also a recall. Besides that just check the car undercarriage for surface rust on calipers they fail a lot due to abunch of surface rust and debris getting into it over time and it’ll act like it’s seized up but really all the grease is just gone over time. Get good quality ceramic pads these cars squeal like a pig with the cheap ones. Also valve cover gasket is a must always will leak eventually every 30k miles or so. Best bet is getting a 2016 &up tbh
The CRVs I have are a 2010 with 210k miles. AC compressor every 100k miles and an alternator at 200. Brakes at 100k and 160k and 210k, the OEM brakes are amazing. Spark plugs at 100k and 200k and both times still looked new. Still drives amazing and is solid it's better than my 2017 CRV.
And the throttle response is super smooth, and great brakes.
Nice. 2011 here (also bought new) but I did all four brakes at 68K miles. They had some life left in them according to the shop, but they just started feeling a tad soft, and my brake pedal was getting a little to close to the floor for comfort.
I've replaced a battery, 2 exhausts and brake pads in that time. Literally that's it, just maintenance and fuel.
I have put 10k miles on it since then. The car has given me no issues whatsoever other than changing the brake pads and sensors.
Last week front passenger brake began making a metal on metal grinding noise. Assumed it was brakes because this vehicle has been a frequent brake pad/rotor-replacee due to the mileage of the car. The brake pads were very low. Drove the car around for about 30mins today and no grinding noise BUT the front passenger was very hot and didn’t smell good.
After bringing the knuckle back, we reinstalled the brake pads. We had a difficult time getting the pads to sit correctly, specifically with the anti-rattle clips (prongs). Eventually, they seemed to seat properly, and we reattached the pads and caliper.
The brakes are nb, I got my car custom ordered (0 miles) and needed to change my brakes @22k miles, my quote was 3k, ended up having my buddy for it for me with 3rd party for like 1.1k
E65 730D, squeaky brakes and suspension, engine mounts shot, interior semi clean apart from the ashtray
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If choosing brake pads across many manufacturers, check the part ranking. If your choice is down to two brands, the PartReview part comparisons help.
We compare brake pads across these categories:
In March 2026 on PartReview, brake pads OEM Honda were overall better than OEM BMW.
In March 2026 on PartReview, brake pads OEM Honda were overall more popular than OEM Honda.
The brands are equal by vote balance:
By number of reviews, brake pads OEM BMW surpassed OEM Honda:
In March 2026, according to PartReview, brake pads OEM BMW and OEM Honda have not taken top places in car-specific ratings. You can help by adding your review about these manufacturers.
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For example, comparisons of brake pads OEM BMW with: EBC, POWER STOP, Akebono, Hawk Performance, Brembo, Ferodo, OEM Volkswagen, Bosch, STOPTECH, Carbotech.
Also available: comparisons of brake pads OEM Honda with: EBC, POWER STOP, Akebono, Hawk Performance, Brembo, Ferodo, OEM Volkswagen, Bosch, STOPTECH, Carbotech.
You can also see who is better among other brake pads manufacturers: EBC or POWER STOP, EBC or Akebono, EBC or Hawk Performance, Brembo or EBC, Akebono or POWER STOP.