I prefer synthetic myself in my CX50 Turbo, but Mazda engines aren't very picky overall.
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I’d high recommend doing an oil change with 10w30, putting on a factory oil filter (they’re about $10 at the dealer and come with a crush washer), and seeing how it behaves then. I recommend factory filters because for some very odd reason, I had less (or no) lifter tick when I used factory filters vs. aftermarket.
Our 17 has 205,000km so far. Has been great. Have gone through 4 sets of rear brakes, maybe 2 front but it might only be one, had to recently replace the alternator.
9 years working at Mazda and also a master tech, to me always oem fluid. No matter what, I for everything matter in fact. Seen lots of after makers stuff and even brake pads.
I did the depower and its hard to turn standing still but once you get moving I can one hand it even in a parking lot but I still use the factory wheels and steering wheel.
Yeah the headlights may be the single most replaced part on this car. Their reliability drags the rest of the vehicle down. At least it’s not powertrain.
As others have said, bulging is a sign that the internal structure of the tyre has failed. As frustrating as this is, it's new tyre time.
Man I hit a rock in my ‘21 Mazda 3. Damaged the oil pan, differential, catalytic converter (secondary), mufflers, and engine cradle. $10k+ repair
I\u2019ve had a CX-30 for almost two years. I love the car, but I wouldn\u2019t get another Mazda after this. Nothing but trouble, sadly. On average, I\u2019ve had to go to the dealership every three months for different issues. Next week I\u2019m getting a headlight replaced, and it would cost $1\u20132k if it weren\u2019t under warranty.
I have a CX-50. Love the car, but damn, the rattles drive me crazy. Doesn\u2019t scream quality when the steering column has a terrible rattle inside of it
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