Honda parts reviews

my 2016 crv LX has had no cvt issues so far. changed my fluid at 36,000 miles

2016 Honda Accord EX 2.4L: This is my car. 220k miles, transmission oil drain/refill (3 quarts out, 3 in) Every 2nd oil change (20k miles each). Not a single issue. Running great. Quiet, smooth, highly responsive.

I only buy Yuasa batteries . The one's that come with the acid pack. I had one on my Honda Valkyrie that lasted 10 years. It never failed but at 10 years I thought it best to replace it.

I’ve had people flash their lights at our new Honda because they think the high beams are on. I feel bad but what am I supposed to do? That’s how the thing came from Honda.

So far K&N is on track to hit 10k before I change my oil again.

NGK Laser Iridiums will last longer, but those aren't bad per se.

I bought a set for a CRV. They arrived and I had a Honda certified tech check them out. He pronounced them the real deal. So far, running strong.

My wife's CR-V needed a new windshield and the insurance wouldn't pay for "OEM" glass, so I checked the OEM/white label manufacturer (it was Pilkington) and got an "aftermarket" Pilkington windshield. Everything was basically the same, but the logo was on the passenger's side instead of the driver's side. I don't have the waviness that you do and they were able to calibrate the safety systems, but there was a minor defect (white spot) in the black portion of the windshield outer edge. When I talked to the glass guys about it, they said that almost none of the windshields they get from any suppliers are absolutely perfect. Most have some minor somewhere. They told me it was something to do with the way they "press" the laminated glass into the mold these days.

I still burnt the clutch disc on my 2017 civic Si at the age of 25 because I drove it like an asshole. I had two choices to make being the owner of a car that had the capability to reach higher speeds much faster: dump the clutch or use the bite point correctly. This dynamic created a situation of needing to switch gears at much higher rpm’s than I was typically used to. Normally I would use the bite point to gear up and down smoothly, but this tactic used improperly can and did eat the hell out of my clutch disc. I finally learned my lesson after one fateful afternoon, I sped past a slow car, tried to gear up with the bite point, and saw the rpm’s go cattywampus. I tried to transition gears up and down, hoping it was just a fluke… but my fate was sealed, and my disc was all but done for.

I’ve had almost all of them destroy themselves recently.

A few months ago i had a intermittent misfire appear and went to investigate it but when I popped the hood while it was running, the wire on cyl 3 was literally popping and sucking itself in and out with the spark plug core still on. I took the plug out and the ceramic was moving in and out from the threaded bit. So it was gapping and slamming itself together while running.

I changed the one spark plug cause I had a spare ngk, I forgot about changing the rest and now I have a new misfire….. I can now feel the tick from combustion going thru the wires on cyl 1 and 4. So now 2 spark plugs are starting to do the same thing. I will be changing to ngk plugs now and won’t be touching Bosch.