Spark plug NGK or Denso

On a 2.0T it's pretty darn easy. The Gen 3+ engines have the bolted down coil packs with the ground wires/nuts, which can be tricky. You might need to counter hold with a thin style wrench, but other than that it's fairly straight forwards. I'd be sure to use only legit plugs from reputable sellers--there are a surprising number of counterfeit NGK (and Bosch and Denso) plugs out there. Fake plugs can cause more than just pesky misfires too, they can break off in-chamber and cause catastrophic engine and/or turbo charger damage. Not worth it to save a few bucks and potentially end up in ruin. NGK are the OE most of the time so getting the Laser Platinum or Ruthenium HX are recommended. Whether or not you want to replace the coils is up to you. I'd say it's too new for that and if you don't have a ton of miles on it, probably not necessary. The spark plug interval on these engines is comically short too--I'm not sure why VAG does that but they do that across the board on their engines. The original plugs will go for 2x the specified interval without any issue at all. If you are not super high miles and you pull them out and see "they look just fine"? Don't be surprised because they probably *will* be just fine. That said if you're still under warranty (base or extended), change them as specified.

yup those are done.

the center electode is worn flat and the gap is way too wide.

just replace them. make sure yu use the specified NGK or Denso Iridium plugs.

Yes, they have a lot of buildup and deposits. Make sure you get that exact spark plug again same brand everything don't put anything other than the NGK that originally came with

Fairly easy to do,ive seen this plugs go past 150k honda tech here.

Factory plugs were causing the auto transmision to take longer to shift and jerk more suprisingly. I assume because the engine was acting differently than the transmission expected.

I have a 2012 Civic LX (purchased new) and replaced the original spark plugs at 100k miles with **Denso 3483 (DXU22HCR-D11S)**—which were listed as compatible on RockAuto at the time. I’ve had great results and am now at 200k miles, looking to replace them with the same.

Make sure you get NGKs: FA/FB/EJ/Etc. love those the most.

Swapped the NGKs (around 60k miles on them) for new OEM Denso plugs. That stopped the shaking for about two days, then it came back.

Ngks are fine but be careful with them. I myself ran these and changed them at 10k intervals. I met someone at a car meet who recommended 5k intervals w these n I didn’t understand till my engine was gone. They can foul up and break inside the cylinder. Granted in my case it was my fault but it’s happened a few times w other ppl.

I just got some fakes with the EAC logo on the box and the accurate Japan stamp with the line under the p. I could tell they were fake just by looking at the poorly machined threads, let alone the crooked ground electrode that looks like it is made out of casted tin lol.