543
Owners' choice:
543
Owners' choice:
I have been using fram filters for years with no problems, synthetic oil changed @5000miles or sometimes a bit more. no leaking or any of that other nonsense. Here goes the good old vortex hype again. Use what you want and if it works then stay with it.
before you go tearing down your engine, go buy a mann filter (has a check valve in it) from a vw parts plce and have your oil changed with detergent oil, i had a bit of carbon build up, did this and solved all my problems.
Filters: OEM Mann/Mahle/Hengst only Oil: 15w40 winter, 20w50 winter I've never had to replace an oil pump or cam followers(\"lifters\") on any of my cars. VW engines, especially higher-mileage ones, love thicker oil.
I always use stock VW/Mann oil filters. I think next oil change I'll go with Mobil1 0W-40 instead of Royal Purple 5W-30 and I'll change the oil at 10,000 miles instead of the usual 7,500 with RP.
I'm hoping that getting some MANN filters for the upcoming oil change will help solve MY problem...I'm frankly getting tired of dealing with this
replace the fram oil filter with a bosch or mann and it will go off
I'm happy it ended my cold start rattles if nothing else. I'm just curious to know if you would still see 240 temps with the oem filter....or even a crappy Fram for that matter.
Do NOT use a FRAM oil filter, whatever you do! Mahle, Mann, or VW OEM only.
I have been using FRAM filters all this time, and the problem has re-developed.
I switched to the dealer filter and I will never go back to a Fram. Before my oil pressure when warmed up would not go above 2bar now it does what it is supposed to.
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