had a Y33 nissan with 305K miles on the OD, it was burning/losing about a quart every 900 miles or so, after 4 oil changes over a year and a half with Valvoline R&P, its now down to a quart every 3000 miles give or take a couple of hundred. its no more expensive than other quality oils so why not? if it can do that for a 26 year old nissan V8, it has me sold.
According to a well known subie mechanic /tuner /builder that also rallys them here in Australia , the valvoline restore and protect is a game changer compared to other oils.
Valvoline ran better and leaked less in my old 92 civic eg compared to mobile 1
The one that seems to have made the greatest difference (non-tracking) is the one referenced below in either 5w50, 5w40, or the two of them mixed together. Per the relevant gauges, the 996 runs a bit cooler and the viscosity (via oil pressure readings across running temperatures and times) stays higher.
As far as oil , im running valvoline restore and protect. Half way thru first oil change and the caked on varnish is just wiping away. Good stuff.
OEM oil is made by cheapest bidder who was able to fill the minimum requirements by the already cheapskate GM.
my 2 cents - use MOTUL DEXOS 2 SPECIFIC. Or some other premium oil. Oil is the most important fluid your car has. Cheaping out on it just stupid.
Just switched from unioil 10w-40 motorcycle oil (for break-in period) to Valvoline premium protect 10w-30 on my pcx160
Di ko alam ganun pala ka laki difference ng oil!
Grabe nawala yung akala kong normal vibration
My car at 150k extensively used Shell 10w60, and I switched it to Motul 10w60 cause it was the easiest to get for me.
I’ve (mostly) only used Motul in my scooters. Only destroyed two engines and the oil wasn’t to blame. (I was.)
Started running Rotella T6. Happy with that...when my mechanic did a 12K service he used Motul 7100. It shifted poorly after that and I started to get a lot of clutch slip.
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