Engine oil Mobil or ELF

Mobil 1 15w-50, Viton o-ring from any automotive or industrial supply house, Wix or NAPA(mfd by Wix) filter.

I use Mobil 1 15/50 in the engine, rotella t 15/40 in the primary, and Mobile 1 75/140 in the transmission.

I was using 0w20 because of price but got some mobile 1 deal 0w16 for cheap so I'll try that and see if I get better MPG (currently 35-42).

Google the Mobil 1 “million mile car”.

I run Mobil 1 Racing 4T 10W-40 oil for my ZX6R. I love it. I change it every 3000 miles.

Anyway, the only 508.00 spec oil I've found locally has been this Mobil 1 ESP X2 at Wally World. (walmart) Anyone else running it? Anyone seen any deep analyses? I put lots of Mobil 1 Delvac through 2 TDIs totalling 485k miles, so I'm willing to bet on this Mobil 1. I like being able to pick it up locally, and at only $28 for 5 quarts!?

I use either Mobil 1 ESPx2 European Car Formula 0W-20 available at Walmart or Valvoline Full Synthetic European Vehicle 0W-20 from NAPA. Both are approved VW 508 00 oils and can be cheaper than the oil at the dealer.

I’ve been running mobil delay esp 5w40 it’s been working well for me.

Throughout the summer I was averaging a quart every 750-1000 miles, still using Mobil1 15w50 & Viscoplus. This winter it dropped back down to 1 quart every 500 miles, but as the weather has warmed up, my consumption seems to have decreased again. I think that had something to do with the oil, which was admittedly way too thick for cold weather. I would let the car warm up a couple minutes before driving because that oil is syrup in cold weather.

I know when I put my stroker block in with stock head/turbo I filled it with 0w-40 and I would get low oil pressure when deaccelerating down hills.. Low enough the light would flash on, got my freaked out! with the new head. and my 71r 72a/r set up going on I'm swapping to 10w-40 mobil 1, because when I took the old head off there was a TON of carbon build up for the small amount of miles I had driven the new block around(less then 2,000 miles). I had changed the old twice already(once ot get the break in oil out and once again at 500 where I dropped the pan to check for metal and such and up in a new pick up tube for piece of mind). I have good reason to believe the 0w-40 is just too thin for the clearances for stroker pistons and such. I'll report back once the car is up and running with the 10w-40 in it. If the oil pressure problems persist I'm thinking about stepping up to 10w-50, but Im in southern California so YMMV depending on how cold/hot it gets around you.