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2013-2015 have axle recalls…they’ll get fix free but you’ll need to invest in wheel hubs on the front due to the axles failing it’ll mess up the wheel hubs. Also the sensor on the battery it’s something about sending the correct volts to the alternator that’s a big issue and could cause electrical fires. Was also a recall. Besides that just check the car undercarriage for surface rust on calipers they fail a lot due to abunch of surface rust and debris getting into it over time and it’ll act like it’s seized up but really all the grease is just gone over time. Get good quality ceramic pads these cars squeal like a pig with the cheap ones. Also valve cover gasket is a must always will leak eventually every 30k miles or so. Best bet is getting a 2016 &up tbh
The CRVs I have are a 2010 with 210k miles. AC compressor every 100k miles and an alternator at 200. Brakes at 100k and 160k and 210k, the OEM brakes are amazing. Spark plugs at 100k and 200k and both times still looked new. Still drives amazing and is solid it's better than my 2017 CRV.
Nice. 2011 here (also bought new) but I did all four brakes at 68K miles. They had some life left in them according to the shop, but they just started feeling a tad soft, and my brake pedal was getting a little to close to the floor for comfort.
can consider a parf volvo with 2-3 years left, i bought a nearly 9 years old 2016 volvo s60 t5, drove 45k km in 10 months, drove to krabi thailand, total spent $2000+ on maintenance for the 45k km i used (mostly wear and tear stuff, things like brake pads, tyres, wipers that jap cars also have to change). honestly damn good car for the price i paid (10.8k depre). 241hp stock, pretty reliable for a conti, and super quiet and comfortable.
I've replaced a battery, 2 exhausts and brake pads in that time. Literally that's it, just maintenance and fuel.
I had the same problem with my 2024 XC90 and only driven it 3k miles in one year. The dealer replaced the brakes under warranty and the new pads are better. Honestly I think the brakes on such a heavy SUV underperform. Don’t believe the dealer, they said the same to me. Then I held my ground and said that this is a safety issue and not normal!
Last week front passenger brake began making a metal on metal grinding noise. Assumed it was brakes because this vehicle has been a frequent brake pad/rotor-replacee due to the mileage of the car. The brake pads were very low. Drove the car around for about 30mins today and no grinding noise BUT the front passenger was very hot and didn’t smell good.
I had an 850R. It was great. However, two issues: the brakes were shit when they are hot (scarily so: I had a real squeaky bum moment when I tried to brake for a roundabout when I had be driving in an, er, *spirited* fashion*.* I mentioned this to a traffic cop and he said they always upgraded the brakes on 850s). However, unless you drive like a lunatic, I wouldn't have thought this was a major issue.
Just had new brakes put on my Volvo XC90 a few weeks ago (400 miles ago). They make a loud low pitch squeak when braking lightly. It’s terrible. These were installed by my Volvo dealer. Dealer says that’s just how it is. But I can’t imagine someone buying a new car with new brakes and having to deal with the same thing. Response from the dealer was “that’s just how it is”. Same response I got when I raised concerns about the cabin noise and weak AC.
I did have VTC rattle on startup but it went away before I could get around to fixing it. I also had the injectors fail, which were covered under that warranty recall. Also have a leak on the inside of the vehicle from a rear speaker gasket, that will be fixed when I get around to it in the coming weeks. I only learned I had a leak because the interior was moldy and moist. My brakes failed on track mostly likely due to me overheating them, and not properly cooling them down. I ended up melting the O ring on the piston itself. Never really got to diagnose what the issue really was just what I saw and felt. Replaced with "Integra Type R Big Brakes and a Mini Cooper Rotor". Somehow my compressor clutch wire was chopped in half, which caused me to replace the compressor. Though I probably could've just fixed the wires, but I already bought a new compressor so I just replaced it.
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In March 2026 on PartReview, brake pads OEM Honda were overall better than OEM Volvo.
In March 2026 on PartReview, brake pads OEM Honda were overall more popular than OEM Volvo.
By vote balance, brake pads OEM Honda surpassed OEM Volvo:
By number of reviews, brake pads OEM Honda surpassed OEM Volvo:
In March 2026, according to PartReview, brake pads OEM Volvo led more car-specific ratings than OEM Honda:
OEM Volvo are chosen by owners of cars such as: Volvo S60, Volvo XC60, and others.
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Also available: comparisons of brake pads OEM Honda with: EBC, POWER STOP, Akebono, Hawk Performance, Brembo, Ferodo, OEM Volkswagen, Bosch, STOPTECH, Carbotech.
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