Brake pads Ferodo or OEM Mazda
I would recommend first to switch fluid for Castrol SRF then switch to Ferodo DS1.11 brake pads exclusively for track use and DS2500 for daily/canyon carving.The beauty of Ferodo brake pads is that it not needed to re-bedding your pads when switching compounds as long as you stay within the Ferodo family.DS1.11 are endurance pads that love to operate in very high temperatures which might not require cooling ducts.
Ether Motul RBF 600 or Endless RF650 brake fluid is a good options. As far as pads go Ferodo DS2500 is a great pad for street/track. It has relatively low dust and noise levels compared to other track pads, yet still has moderately high bite and solid fade resistance of a track pad.
I had a 172,Clio with ferodo DS2500 pads all round and brembo high carbon vented front discs and solid rear discs.
I run the Ferodo DS2500 which would probably meet your criteria. Fair warning though - they make noise, especially in the fixed Brembo calipers. You have to regrease them every few months.
Buy Ferodo DS2500 brake pads then buy rotors according to your budget, forget about drilled rotors if anything go with slotted and if within your budget get two piece rotors in order to save unsprung weight.
Ferodo ds2500 is a great option. I’ve heard yellows are noisy/dusty. I’ve inhaled plumes of it first hand on the track.
I inherited a 2011 cx7 from my parents who purchased this car new. They have always kept care of their vehicles. This is a non turbo model. Other than normal maintenance items they had replaced the AC compressor. Since I took it over in 2020, I replaced drive side front wheel bearing and passenger front caliper, brake pads all the way around plus normal maintenance items. 320,000km runs perfectly.
DS2500s on my daily. Bit of squeak, but it’s not bad at all. I have EBC yellow on the rear as they don’t make DS2500s for a non PP mk7.5, and they’re garbage.
Changed the pads front and rear was super easy and straight forward.Then after taking the car out of 'electric brake service mode' and starting the car I get the a yellow check engine light and code C05AB, clearing it made no difference. Only thing I could find online was "The electronically controlled brake unit detects that the pressure feed valve (primary side) is stuck ON (OPEN)."
Mazda. Brakes. Suck. I’ve owned 2 6s. A 2018 and a 2021. Both needed brakes at around 20k. DO NOT REPLACE WITH MAZDA OE BRAKES. Or you’ll just be in the same boat again. Buy a set of PowerStops and be done with it.
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