Battery OEM FORD or OEM Volkswagen
My 2014 jetta TDI does the exact same thing as in your video when the battery is dying. I've had the car now for 6 years and it's happened 3 times. If the alternator checks out fine, then I would attempt a new battery.
Change it when it can no longer meat a battery test to spec, which has good margin before it starts causing issues, like freaked out ECU or hard starting.
Even in the colder weather now, I'd be getting 400+ km on a full charge in my BEV (Mustang Mach e). But I only charge once a week (Fri night), to 80% to help with battery life; costs about $3 per week to get an extra 200-300km.
OEM VW Battery lasted 7/8 years, despite me nuking it by foolishly leaving my lights on. Sad day.
I replaced the battery of my 18 SE this year and did not code the battery. I replaced it with an OEM one from VW’s parts department and had no issues
Always read your manual/mfr suggestions for battery charging and longevity.
For Li-ion you generally should charge no more than 80% (some mfg hide 10% via software like Ford, so you charge to 90%). Also, limit fee cycling these types too, regularly you should DC to about 50% max. Occasionally deep cycling and full charging is fine. Should limit DCFC also.
VW OEM batteries in modern cars often do that. I was lucky to detect slightly "lazy" cranking in my 2018 GSW 4Mo. Tested and showed %51 SOH even after fully charging it. Lasted 6 years almost to the date.
My golf 2010 VW dashboard ****s down but car remains running. When it don't start take out the battery touch the two cables together with out the battery. For 15 seconds to reboot the car and it starts back.
Stock battery lang na mabilis palitan ang naging issue.
defective rin battery sa unit ko wala pang 2 months (common issue ng next gen everest) pinalitan rin naman ng casa for free but still, hassle.
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