Alternator OEM FORD or OEM Volkswagen

OEM FORD Alternator

I replaced the alternator on my Windstar last month. Disconnect the wires, remove 3 bolts and lift it out. Takes like 10 minutes or less.

Pros: easy to replace, takes 10 minutes
Vehicle: Ford Windstar
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OEM FORD Alternator
osage15
  • Lights:
Rating 5.0

The alternator I have on my 3.0 Ford Ranger does over 130 at idle and 300 at 2,000 engine RPM. It's the same size as factory, just custom built for $550 for the truck since I use it for car audio competition.

Pros: high output at idle
Cons: custom built, expensive
Vehicle: Ford Ranger
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OEM FORD Alternator

Just sold mine to a friend... owned this one for 5 years, put 40+ thousand miles on it, and it needed nothing except for an alternator, and battery. It was a great car for me. Never let me down, drove, and sounded great...

Pros: drove and sounded great
Cons: needed alternator, battery
Vehicle: Ford Contour
Mileage: 64373 km
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OEM Volkswagen Alternator

The MK2 alternator setup has a fatter bolt than the Mk1 alternator uses. I've seen how the thinner bolt eventually wears into the alternator and it doesn't sit straight. The MK2 alternator setup also scoots the alternator closer to the timing belt end of the engine, giving a little more room by the radiator and a shorter shaft means less torque on the bearings. You'll need the MK2 alternator wiring,.. I just bolt it to the starter.

Pros: more room by radiator
Cons: adjuster bracket customised
Vehicle: Volkswagen
Part number: 24-2106
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OEM FORD Alternator
ByronLLN
  • Warning light:
Rating 4.0

We have an '05 ZX5. The alternator crapped out at about 45k miles. $50 part, did it myself. Otherwise, it's been flawless. 60k and counting.

Pros: flawless otherwise
Cons: alternator crapped out
Vehicle: Ford Focus
Mileage: 72420 km
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OEM Volkswagen Alternator

Alternators don't make good battery chargers and if your alternator is on its way out then it may not be able to charge the battery. A fully charged battery measures 12.6V when the car is not started. When it's discharged by 75% then it measures 12.4V. if it's like 12V then it's totally dead. When you start the engine and the alternator turns, at idle you should have at least 13.4 Volts. If it's less than this then try reving the RPM's to like 2000rpm. You now should have at least 13.4V. If you don't then you have a problem either with the regulator or you have a bad diode.

Pros: fully charged battery 12.6V
Cons: alternator not battery charger
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OEM Volkswagen Alternator
816rider
  • Warning light:
Rating 1.0

alright guys...i charged the battery and it started right up...put my meter on the batter with it running and it just kept going down in voltage over a 10 min span...so i would say the alt is bad...

Pros: battery started right up
Cons: voltage kept going down
Vehicle: Volkswagen
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OEM FORD Alternator
Slipstream
  • Warning light:
Rating 2.0

I had a Cougar (same underpinnings) and mine went through alternators like candy. I'm sure a better-designed aftermarket version would probably take care of it though.

Pros: better sounding V6s
Cons: alternators like candy
Vehicle: Ford Cougar
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