Alternator OEM FORD or OEM Volkswagen

The Taurus alternator and 2 speed e-fan come to mind as the two most common parts that people pickup from junkyards and slap them on to their cars.

Sorry for the late reply. just to go ahead and close this out, it was a bad alternator. Took the 400 dollar hit to my wallet and bought a new one. Spent a few hours yesterday replacing it. So far I've driven it about 30 miles without the battery light coming back on. Thanks everyone for the help.

Had the same issue with my -07 Volvo v50 (it has a ford engine). Swapped the alternator and the problem was gone.

I'm using a MK2 Golf alternator. It has the correct mount width, and has the right frame to mate up with the nice rack and pinion style adjustment bracket also from the MK2 Golf.

The tech who replaced my alternator (@10K mi) left his permanent fingerprints on my hood...have to try to buff it out. Apart from the bad alternator documented in another thread (hopefully a one-off), the car has been great (especially in winter) - no leaks, no sunroof issues, buzzing, rattling, vibrations, etc.

First, if your alternator is putting out 13.8V while the car is running, your alternator is fine. Period. If your battery passes a load test after being fully charged, it is fine.

okay so i installed an alternator in my car yesterday, boosted it, let the battery charge a bit, removed jumpers...car stalled.

I had one during college... For a V6 it wasn't particularly quick and handled a lot bigger than it was. In three years it ate five alternators and the intake runner control box was notorious for failing (killing what little power it had).

the car is a 1996 golf gl, 5 speed, with A/C (this is relevant to the alternator spec) Original problem, car not charging and replacement alternators were no good

I have a 99.5 vr6 2.8 afp and missing a alternator ground i think I am getting 20 intermittent ground fault codes and the kid i bought the car from had a alternator put in.