Owner reviews for thermostat

I was instructed by a friend who had some of m47 and m57, to buy thermostat only original from bmw, because everything else doesn't work as long or good.

I have two vehicles with the 3.6 V6. Both of them had the thermostat fail. When I changed the one on me Journey, Dorman had the aftermarket aluminum version available, so that is what's running on that car. It has zero issues. When the OEM version on my van inevitably fails again, I'm going with the aluminum one to replace it.

This is a thermostat issue. I’m going through this issue currently. Eventually your computer will have a P0128 code. I took mine to the dealer and they quoted me $1200 to fix it. I sad fuck off. The ACDelco part is $53 and a little labor and fluids and you are fixed.

I've had the thermostat on my M272 engine replaced by an indy mechanic. OEM was Wahler, looking at the original the the Wahler I got, the only difference was the spot where the MB logo was on the original, it was grounded out by some grinding disk on the replacement one.

I got a duralast part from autozone with a lifetime warranty for 25 bucks. My jeep has been been running well for the last year since the change to the duralast part

Order OEM Tstat only. Subaru used the same one for decades. Any Subaru from '97 uses the same one.

I have a new Fujitsu mini-split system that was installed about a month ago. The thermostat for each wall unit is on the remotes. Not sure if it's the same for Mitsubishi units. It's nice, because I can put the remote where I want the temp to match what I've entered on the unit, but it needs to be in direct sight of the wall unit to register. I've also noticed if I change the temp I have to see the light blink on the wall unit. If it doesn't blink, the unit didn't see the change, and it doesn't seem to register if the remote is back in line of sight afterwards.

I'd advise taking that Duralast thermostat out and installing either an OEM unit or a unit from a trusted brand (such as Stant). If the Duralast gets stuck in a closed position, the SUV will overheat. If it gets stuck in an open position, the engine won't reach operating temp, and you'll have issues such as running rich. Duralast has a nickname we techs refer to: Duracrap or Dura-doesn't-last.

I just had the code P0126 on my 2021 mazda cx-30 with 20,000 miles. Seems to be the same issue

when installing a mishimoto thermostat, check that the shoulder/flange is the same thickness as oem. Otherwise your stock hardware WILL NOT FIT. You will bottom out the bolt in the timing cover and snap that mf. Those bolts are extremely hard to access and a MAJOR HEADACHE to get extracted.