Owner reviews for clutch disc

Other than the throwout bearing getting OEM stuff is on par pricewise with most aftermarkets. Considering OEM discs frequently hit the quarter million mile mark, thats what I put back in my third gen.

For my last clutch kit, it was a Southbend stage 1 kit and of course the garbage Exedy disc exploded (typical spring retainers cracked). I simply replaced the disc with an OEM Aisin one directly from the dealership. Part number 31250-20140-84 - $62. So far, this $62 Aisin OEM clutch disc has been putting up with a 2GR-FE for 10k km's and 6 track days. It is likely the clamping force of the Southbend pressure plate that is doing most of the work, but I was not expecting it to have zero issues. It just shows you how the original Aisin spec is overkill already for the car.

do NOT go with the Sachs sintered paddle disc kit. You don't need it, and it sucks ass to drive. The organic disc holds 400ft-lbs and is buttery smooth to drive. Fantastic option.

I needed something to hold over 400tq on my CUA swapped MK7 Golf, and thus the sintered disc is what I went with. I can live with it, but man do I miss the organic one.

Clutch disc is a brand new 8v Sachs part I purchased.

I've had this TTRS setup running for 5k miles on my Golf R. Clutch kit: 07K-141-015-BX and clutch disc: Sachs 1878005146 . Overall compared to stock clutch with restrictor removed: Engagement is noticeably stiffer and the engagement area is a little \"narrower\". In my opinion it takes the clutch from being EXTREMELY light with the restrictor removed to feeling more like a \"normal\" car. Overall the change is not overly dramatic and OEM -> OEM no restrictor was a bigger change than OEM no restrictor -> TTRS no restrictor. In addition to not slipping, engagement with the TTRS PP is a lot more crisp and reassuring overall.

I installed the transmission last night, and bled the clutch and everything is buttery smooth....smoother then I remember before - even when the car was new. I drove from Boulder to Aspen this morning, and the shifting was buttery smooth even with my Diesel Geek short shift kit.

What we thought was a broken fuel gauge ended up being a broken fuel sender unit and because the fuel tank sits behind the engine and because VW didn't build an access panel for the tank... -Pull engine -Replace fuel sender unit -Replace fuel tank because the tank was rusty, good news is the Bus was fitted with a later tank that carries an extra 4 gallons, will replace with brand new tank of same size -Replace worn clutch disc while we're in there

application is for 87 16v scirocco with 210mm 28 spline clutch. non dampened is cheaper and i would think it would mean it does not have the center springs in it but all the pics always shows that both discs have the springs. so does anyone know the difference? or has anyone used the non dampened without any ill effects?

I still burnt the clutch disc on my 2017 civic Si at the age of 25 because I drove it like an asshole. I had two choices to make being the owner of a car that had the capability to reach higher speeds much faster: dump the clutch or use the bite point correctly. This dynamic created a situation of needing to switch gears at much higher rpm’s than I was typically used to. Normally I would use the bite point to gear up and down smoothly, but this tactic used improperly can and did eat the hell out of my clutch disc. I finally learned my lesson after one fateful afternoon, I sped past a slow car, tried to gear up with the bite point, and saw the rpm’s go cattywampus. I tried to transition gears up and down, hoping it was just a fluke… but my fate was sealed, and my disc was all but done for.

I have the SRE with metallic disk in my 2010. It sucks for DD