Owner reviews for alternator

I ended up with a Bosch reman from AutoHausAZ .. was a bit cheaper than europarts-sd.

My alternator is neither a Bosch or a Reman. It was bought new and its Hitachi in brand. Came with lifetime warranty.

I would definitely replace your alternator if it is dead. I had the same problem on another one of my cars (Ford). It was really frustrating because the alternator tested good but it kept happening so I thought it was the battery and got a new one. It stopped for about a week but then started again. The alt. was the problem after all. I would also go oem Bosch because the autozone ones don't last that long.

The car had a choppy idle before installing the eBay Corrado G60 140 Amp Alternator . After slapping this on it cured the rough idle and flickering HID's at night on cold start up.

eBay came through for me. I located a 140 amp (vs 90) alternator from a shop in L.A. The Bosch rebuilt G60 alternators use good, but not the best bearings. The owner said he'd use a good core, put in the better bearings (SKF) and build one from scratch for me (gratis). He recommended against using the OAD on the pulley.

Just sold mine to a friend... owned this one for 5 years, put 40+ thousand miles on it, and it needed nothing except for an alternator, and battery. It was a great car for me. Never let me down, drove, and sounded great...

The MK2 alternator setup has a fatter bolt than the Mk1 alternator uses. I've seen how the thinner bolt eventually wears into the alternator and it doesn't sit straight. The MK2 alternator setup also scoots the alternator closer to the timing belt end of the engine, giving a little more room by the radiator and a shorter shaft means less torque on the bearings. You'll need the MK2 alternator wiring,.. I just bolt it to the starter.

Alternators don't make good battery chargers and if your alternator is on its way out then it may not be able to charge the battery. A fully charged battery measures 12.6V when the car is not started. When it's discharged by 75% then it measures 12.4V. if it's like 12V then it's totally dead. When you start the engine and the alternator turns, at idle you should have at least 13.4 Volts. If it's less than this then try reving the RPM's to like 2000rpm. You now should have at least 13.4V. If you don't then you have a problem either with the regulator or you have a bad diode.

I'm surprised Mazda is rated so poorly, I had a Mazda MPV for 8 years and honestly the only problem I had was the driver's side window gear was worn out, and the alternator.

Triumph TR7. You're a bunch of amateurs. I'm a British car guy in general but the Wedge was exactly as bad as advertised. When it couldn't keep a battery charged I converted it to a GM alternator, then the radiator fell out. A previous owner had pop-riveted a license plate over a hole in the floor. Keeping the carbs synched is a black art. The seat frame snapped as I went down the road - I later found out that it had been hose-clamped together by a previous owner. It didn't catch fire as many times as my Spitfire has, but at least the Spit is fun to drive. The headlights didn't just pop up out of sync, they popped up and *turned on* on their own.

I've also owned a Hyundai Pony and it was a Toyota Cressida next to the Wedge.