Owner reviews for AC compressor

2017 Elantra SE

The only major thing I had to do was replace the AC compressor and radiator. Oil changes every 5k. It did throw a P0017 code. Worked thru everything and is running great.

Just for the record, the original OEM is Denso and the W12 uses part number 471-1392 which also has the correct amount of oil in it already!

You have to lookup the valve online based upon your make/model of the A/C compressor. VW will only sell the whole compressor as a replacement. A full vacuum and refill process will be needed.

I too just got a new one from Rockauto. Denso is the OEM manufacturer and I felt it more worth it than trying to rebuild. The 924S is blowing cold now after the r134a conversion.

I ended up buying one of these, because of the amount of smoke, I didn't trust the old one, and I couldn't get a reconditioned one in the UK for my particular car. Shipping over a new one from the USA would hurt, so I've gone with this. I don't imagine it will last as well as an OEM version though, as I'm not entirely convinced it is genuine. Zexel is an OEM on some parts though. Who knows. Seems to be built well though:

complete A/C rebuild, continued A/C problems and it's in the shop right now having the A/C compressor replaced under warranty because it ceased and caused my pcb to blow (after I just replaced the pcb myself and had to pay the dealer to program it)

2015 BMWi3 owner here. I’m in the second phase of the dreaded A/C compressor failure repair with the BIG ticket cost of $6500.

Less than a year ago I paid over $4000. to replace the compressor. So the total is now right around $10500 to run the A/C system to keep this car’s battery cool enough to not set the car on fire! And I was told this by the service department when I asked how necessary the repairs are. He said the battery will overheat and be a fire hazard! This is catastrophic for an EV so I took further action to report this.

I reported this to the BMW North America Concierge supervisor and he stated “it was normal wear and tear” for an 8 year old car with 80K miles?! I reported this was a major safety problem and should be researched for a possible recall. He did not agree! Wow!

I then took out an official report with National Highway Safety Admin (who govern recalls).

The file is under review as of today.

This is not just an expensive defect, it could prove deadly. I’m researching as much as I can about this.

Any feedback would really be appreciated!

On my e36 it's a lot. It's a belt driven compressor (maybe that's how it is in all cars, idk) and it squeaks until I shoot it with wd40 being careful not to sit the belt. I've gotten through 5 years like this but holy shit, when I turn on the ac the rpms drop dramatically. Everything starts rattling. It doesn't stall but you can feel the lost power. It's a not insignificant number.

With the air conditioning shutting off after driving probably gonna need to replace the compressor. Issue with almost all subarus from 2015-2017. And the hesitation when going into reverse is normal, cvts tend to be delayed.

I drive a 1990. If the ac is on when I turn the car in, it takes significantly more effort to get to idle. The ac compressor runs off a belt and the extra load at start up those things off.