I installed the Valeo alternator that I got from FCP Euro and everything works now. The rebuilt Valeo was $200 less expensive than the Valeo that O’Reilly’s had in their computer but couldn’t order themselves. Also it was immaculate. It was a true rebuild and looked brand new in every way. It was $400.
A bearing went in our original alternator so I replaced it with a Valeo brand and it's pretty loud when it clicks on. It is loud enough that I'm wondering if I got a bad alternator --or is this normal??
It's the typical whirl or whurr noise --it's silent, and then you can hear the whirl or whurr noise when the alternator clicks on. It seems mechanically and electrically fine: It's doing what it should be doing electrically (charging, correct voltage, the battery is happy, the car runs better with this new alternator, etc.). It's just loud.
mine is a Valeo alternator and though you are probably correct, this is the original alternator (22 years old) and it will probably get me through another few years at least.
Actually, yes. I did. They did take it back though, after a couple of phone calls.\n\n+1 for Valeo. -10 for Reman.\n\nIf your alternator goes, absolutely get a new one, original spec.
It's probably a crap reman one. The aftermarket reman ones that aren't Valeo, Bosch, or Delphi seem to last a year tops before they die.
A brand new Valeo (439317) alternator is $209 on Rockauto and they can be swapped in an hour or two.
I then ordered a Valeo from Bimmerworld which arrived seized. Finally ordered the same Valeo from RockAuto (for less money, too) which has been working great so far.
I thought Valeo was OEM? Cost me like $250 and was a perfect match.
I replaced my alternator with a Valeo unit. They manufacture the OEM part. Think it was 300$ or so, while OEM was almost double. Just a heads up, there’s almost zero clearance to remove the alternator. Really tight fit.
Hi all, after a long time, the problem solved by instaling a non refurbished Valeo alternator. Same one as the refurbished was.
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