I've had good experience with the Bosch distance plus filters.
Bosch filters are almost as bad a FRAM now.
oil changed and one new Bosche oil filter later the car now has total oil pressure and runs great.
So I changed the filter to an $11 Bosch filter, got the car good and warmed up, still low pressure. When I start it up and the oil is still thin, I've got about 50psi and as it warms up it just goes lower until it'S around 10psi at 2000rpm.
After much searching and reading DIY threads, I didn't see any mention of springs for the filter. Your replies confirmed it so I was confident enough to throw the Bosch setup in the trash.
If you are going to go with extended oil changes 10-20k miles you must use a high quality filter and if not a Group 3 Polyalphaolefin (PAO) oil, an actual full synthetic oil would be best. Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec are not true synthetic they are (PAO) Group 3. Red-Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are the common true synthetics. If you paid less than $15-$20 a quart for oil it's not a true synthetic.
Your filter has to be high quality. Even then I would advise you change the filter and top off your oil at 8k-10k miles.
Oil filters that are able to go for extended runs are Wix, Napa Gold, and Bosch. Those are the 3 brands I trust for long term use. My truck with over 170k miles drives like it did over 13 years ago when I got it new.
Bosch oil filters. I used them to desludge 2 engines, and it CONSTANTLY keeps pulling more and more out. Only problem, they are black, so leak detection can be difficult if its in a tight spot.
I use Full Synth Royal Purple and a Bosch filter. I drive a 2002 S2K and the RP oil keeps the TCT noise in check.
royal purple, amsoil, k&N, mobil 1 extended, bosch long disance are good for more like 25k or 35k miles
5w50 castrol syntec and bosch filters what ever's on sale.
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