You bought a BMW and now have to pay to keep it running and this is what it costs.
On my previous EV, a BMW i3, the brake pads were the same as the Mini Cooper (except for the 2014, which used a shaved-down pad for some reason).
The steering was the worst of all the cars I tried. Engine was fabulous but transmission not very responsive. Handling and suspension usability range were solid but the killer for this car was the really soft, weak brakes.
brzdy 1 naprava 1000
I just bought pads, rotors and sensors. Went with BMW branded, lifetime replacement warranty makes it a no brainier.
Used them twice. Both times had excellent speedy service for a good price. Both times were brakes on my 3 series (front discs and pads, then rears). Saved a significant chunk of cash.
the brakes just didn't like slowing from 140 to 90, even though that's something I regularly do on the highway - it doesn't like it then either, but it was scarier on track. What I mean by "the brakes didn't like it" is that after one or maximum 2 hard brakes, the pedal and steering wheel transmit a horrible vibration everytime I even touch the brakes, and this goes on until I presume the brakes have either cooled off, or the rotors have bent themselves back into shape.
Genuine BMW pads and discs only. Driven 200k miles in my beamers. Even the e46 gets genuine BMW factory brakes. My 640i got new genuine discs and pads about a year or 2 ago. (£550 in parts, £80 labour).
My F82 never has engine cooling issues. The DCT needs a 1qt overfill or a better pan once you pick up pace on sticky tires. Unless you're boosting to the moon, you won't have engine cooling issues though. Brakes are the weakest bit. The stockers feel good, but you really need to cool them.
As someone else mentioned, the rear brakes are tiny and even running Pagid RS29 race pads, the rears were 3mm more worn than the front after just one track day.
Write your review about brake pads OEM BMW
Help others - share your experience with this part.