Thermostat OEM Honda or AISIN

I had the same exact car with same exact problem. I changed the thermostat once and it fixed it for about a year. The issue came back and I changed again and it fixed it again... So I'd say get an OEM one if you can.

our 2009 CRV was taking a long time to get to operating temperature and then fluctuating a lot while driving. a new thermostat fixed it.

Don\u2019t listen to these people I have an 08 ex Sam problem replaced thermostat 2 weeks ago in 15 minutes problem is gone

Hard to say if it’s directly OE to Subaru, but I use Aisin thermostats and water pumps on every Subaru engine I do, they function the exact same and are equally as reliable as the original equipment, not to mention these thermostats are $15 on amazon compared to $40 from Subaru.

After getting a P0128 code and replacing the Tstat with an OEM equivalent from a parts house and my code coming back and then actually buying the OEM straight from the dealer fixing my code, I’m hesitant on what I should really put in my car since it seems to be sensitive to parts as well. I remember buying Tstats from AutoZone and never being a problem before.

After doing some research I found that AISIN is likely the supplier for the Subaru OEM thermostats so I ordered them off of Amazon (sold and shipped by Amazon) and they appear to be just that. They were close to the same price and are made in Japan. AISIN THF-007/009 appear to be true OEM Subaru thermostats for FB20B

Pick up the AISIN OEM version of your thermostat. It's pretty cheap so no reason not to get the best one instead of some cheaper alternative. Also you can test the function of your thermostat before doing the change by putting it in hot water. You can check the specs of the one you use, but for the AISIN one for my 2012 civic (9th gen), the thermostat starts opening at 170 and is fully open at 190.

I still changed my thermostat to an Aisin unit for peace of mind, so far so good.

New thermostat (Aisin brand), fresh oil, fresh coolant, replaced at that time. Coolant system bled well. No leaks. Heat worked flawlessly. AC worked after the swap. Overheated the drive home after that swap, turns out the radiator fan module got fried on the final drive (it was above 250 on coolant temps before replacing the engine, on a 30 minute, fast, highway drive). Ordered a new one. Everything working perfect now at the right temperature points. Engine times reading perfect too (watching live data). On a 30 minute highway drive tonight, returning home after the same drive 2 days ago with zero issues, it overheats again. Radiator fans are working. The one thing I changed during the drive was turning down the heat from HIGH to 75. No more than 10 minutes later I hear the bubbling in the heater core area. Take my exit from the highway, and the red temp light starts flashing, temps read 239, and the bubbling worsened. Temps stayed above 228 until I made it home from my exit. Worse at red lights. Turned off for 10 minutes, turned back on, temps went up to 232 at idle, holding steady. Lower radiator hose read 102 degrees, upper hose reads 190.

Aisin THF-003 thermostat was used (I believe this is what I'm regretting). It's like the thermostat isn't opening? Everything else seems fine - it's clearly getting hot. Little to no heat at idle. No circulation = overheating of the engine. Is the replacement thermostat stuck shut?