Thermostat OEM Audi or OEM Mazda

I just got this done and Audi quoted me $2500 for just the thermostat. Mine was covered by the extended warranty Audi has on all water pumps leaks.

Make sure you use a Mazda OEM thermostat. I wouldn’t trust anything but OEM for those.

the 80c has been running flawless. Only difference is that my coolant stays at 83-94c. It used to get as high as 100 sometimes. Also the 80c part was recommended oe part #

Been running the 80 for a month or so. It works great. Car and Temps run flawlessly. Only difference is my average warmed up Temps are 85c. Used to be 95c

Buy an OEM thermostat from Mazda. The aftermarket ones are sometimes not identical.

I finally got around to installing a new thermostat/o-ring/housing and coolant reservoir/cap yesterday. When removing the thermostat, I noticed that the bottom bolt was VERY loose... I had done the thermostat without housing about a year ago now, had never leaked coolant before... My best guess is that I just didn't torque it enough and it slowly loosened, but only when cold (just a guess, but would help explain why no drips when car was running on ramps) and in small enough amounts that I did not notice a puddle on the ground.

My 2021 Mazda3 Turbo has classic thermostat failure symptoms: \n\n- Erratic warm-up (sometimes stuck cold, sometimes near overheating). \n- Upper radiator hose stays lukewarm even after 20+ mins of driving (revved to 3K RPM to test). \n- Housing burns hot, but hose never gets scalding\u2014clear sign of a stuck thermostat.

They kept it for another day and were obviously able to replicate the fault and replaced the Thermostat as they thought it was sticking causing the Temps to fluctuate.

I just had the code P0126 on my 2021 mazda cx-30 with 20,000 miles. Seems to be the same issue

The current plastic thermostat looks a little more beefy, but is still shatty plastic. They're commonly failing at 30-55k miles in the stuck closed position, instant overheat.