Starter motor Denso or Duralast

Duralast Starter motor
Sierra72
  • Cranking:
Rating 5.0

I've gotten in the habit of installing the smaller, lighter, more powerful DL9990S in all of my older small block trucks that use the big heavy 3510 series starters. Never once had an issue with them.

Pros: smaller, lighter, more powerful, no issues
Part number: DL9990S
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Denso Starter motor
redmondcigar
  • Cranking:
  • Multiple attempts:
Rating 5.0

ESPECIALLY with a Honda, go Denso. I had an experience with a failed starter (would only intermittently grab the flywheel) on an '07 Accord where the starter is behind the exhaust manifold. Had a shop replace (they used a Carquest reman) and the issue returned so they replaced again. Off the engine they both tested fine and in spec. Shop refunded the repair as long as I returned the 'faulty' starter so I decided to try but use a reman OEM Denso and it fully worked and has been working flawlessly for years now. It costs a bit more, but worth it - On a Honda at least.

Pros: fully worked, working flawlessly
Cons: failed starter, intermittent grab
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Denso Starter motor
CretinousVoter
  • Cranking:
  • Sounds:
Rating 4.0

Denso OSGR Light Duty starters are very common so parts are easy and any local auto electric rebuilder has seen heaps of them. They may have parts to fix it on the spot. I order a primary gasket/seal kit online because swapping one is a primary cover R&I, and one muliple pack of starter motor to engine case gaskets since they're so inexpensive. If the starter concerned lacks an aftermarket pushbutton end cover I order those for every bike I buy.

First thing I do is remove the three screws holding the solenoid end cover to inspect the contacts which are cheap online. Kits with all the seals and plunger are about 30 bucks shipped so I replace them every starter removal o avoid buying more primary cover gaskets. Then (bike in neutral!) I bottom the exposed plunger manually. If starter rotates but engine does not it's starter clutch time. If engine starts I drill a ~1/4" hole centered on the end cover then reinstall it so I can ride until I sort the parts situation by usung a round shank screwdriver to push the plunger and start the engine. If putting battery voltage to the small blade connector which controls the solenoid does nothing the solenoid windings would likely be open. Those can be replaced from a donor but don't fail often. If I replace a starter I fix the original as backup.

All Balls starter clutches are decent though I don't know the OEM for the or HD. HD outsources starters but dealers stock them and parts.

Pros: parts are easy to find, inexpensive gaskets
Cons: solenoid windings can fail
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Denso Starter motor

I have replaced the Starter Motor/Solenoid with a reman Denso unit, the Starter Relay, and the Throttle Position Sensor, and it seems to have basically solved most of the issues I’ve been having.

Pros: solved most issues
Cons: hassle to replace
Mileage: 202000 km
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Denso Starter motor

The key is to replace with an OEM Toyota or a Denso (the brand Toyota uses) and not an AutoZone special.

Pros: good for many miles
Cons: avoid AutoZone special
Vehicle: Toyota Sequoia
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Duralast Starter motor
TG_NCC
  • Cranking:
Rating 2.0

Replaced the starter with a remanufactured one from AutoZone. Looking back, it never seemed right; it would start okay, but sometimes it seemed to turn slower than other times. So, bad Duralast remanufactured starter apparently.

Cons: slower than other times
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Duralast Starter motor

If your past 3 starters were genuine honda, they suck. Get a duralast. They actually last and work consistently compared to honda oem.

Pros: last and work consistently
Cons: genuine honda suck
Vehicle: Honda
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