Oil filter Bosch or OEM Volkswagen

oil changed and one new Bosche oil filter later the car now has total oil pressure and runs great.

I have purchased a new genuine plug, crush washer and oil filter and plan to change the oil and parts together

If you are going to go with extended oil changes 10-20k miles you must use a high quality filter and if not a Group 3 Polyalphaolefin (PAO) oil, an actual full synthetic oil would be best. Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec are not true synthetic they are (PAO) Group 3. Red-Line, Amsoil, and Royal Purple are the common true synthetics. If you paid less than $15-$20 a quart for oil it's not a true synthetic.

Your filter has to be high quality. Even then I would advise you change the filter and top off your oil at 8k-10k miles.

Oil filters that are able to go for extended runs are Wix, Napa Gold, and Bosch. Those are the 3 brands I trust for long term use. My truck with over 170k miles drives like it did over 13 years ago when I got it new.

I used the bigger passat 1.8t filters on my DD 2000 jetta with mobil 1 0w40 for over 100k in 4.5 years (135k total on vehicle) and when that car was totalled in a flood, the motor was tight and flawless...

Bosch oil filters. I used them to desludge 2 engines, and it CONSTANTLY keeps pulling more and more out. Only problem, they are black, so leak detection can be difficult if its in a tight spot.

I use Full Synth Royal Purple and a Bosch filter. I drive a 2002 S2K and the RP oil keeps the TCT noise in check.

royal purple, amsoil, k&N, mobil 1 extended, bosch long disance are good for more like 25k or 35k miles

Oil filter/housing and the Crank Position Sensor are pretty common leak points. The CPS leak on my own car was like this phantom leak I just couldn't find until a shop fixed it for me.

I have a 2001 Passat 1.8T, on which the oil and filter have been changed every 6 months or 3K mi, whichever came first. The dealer performed the first 4 oil changes, to the 2-year point, then I took over, always with a Bosch or Napa Gold (Wix) filter. Having received the engine sludge notice, I switched from name-brand dinosaur oil to Mobil 1 at my most recent oil change (last month, 23K miles). Although I receive no adverse temperature or indications at the instrument panel, the valve cover SEEMS perhaps to be running a bit hotter than before. What really concerns me is that, when the engine is warmed up, if I stop and idle it for 30 seconds or so, the engine starts making what to my semi-practiced (but new to VWs!) ear sounds perhaps like valve, lash adjuster, or camshaft bearing clatter. The sound emanates from the rear/cylinder 3-4 area, away from belt-driven accessories, etc. Does this sound like an early symptom of sludge, perhaps associated with insufficient oil pressure at idle? Given my history of frequent oil changes and otherwise by-the-book or better maintenance, I would not have expected to be a sludge victim at 23K miles. I suppose I could have just installed a defective brand-new Bosch filter, or I suppose the synthetic oil could have loosened some sludge from my dinosaur days, but these seem like real stretches for an explanation. Any suggestions regarding diagnostics?

I've tried this filter and it produced lots more startup rattle from the lifters. Something to watch out for when trying it out.