Engine oil VALVOLINE or IDEMITSU

So I went from valvoline max life full synthetic 10w-30 in my k1500 92 gmc sierra sle with the 350 and tow package, flat tapped cam truck, to valvoline restore and protect 5w-30. I was having oil pressure issues, only 188,xxx miles. After switching to R&P, 1500 miles into the oil change, I consistently have above 30psi oil pressure.

Ang nagamit ko palang na brands ay toyota, shell, at valvoline. Walang problema sa 3 na yan. Pero last kong gamit ay valvoline eto yung sakto sa specs sa manual. Mas mararamdaman mo na smooth yung sa makina.

Idemitsu 05-W30 from Unioil kasi I cant find Castrol for my Mazda

My 03 forester was burning a quart every 1,000 miles when I got it. Switched to restore and protect and it just stopped burning oil. Not even a gradual decrease in the amount it was burning, just completely stopped burning oil all together.

Once my wife's Subaru is out of warranty we will switch it to R&P. I have my Fusion Hybrid running it now. Can't say if I notice a difference cause I replaced spark plugs same time so I'd course it's smoother starting/stopping.

I just switched the my oil to Valvoline Restore and Protect. It reduces the burning tremendously to normal burn rate after 1000 miles monitored. Good stuff.

The Hyundai owner manual also recommended Quaker State oil too  , to me all full Synthetic oil is the same , Quaker State oil have been around for a long time now its ok to use , do you know the brand Super Tech oil in Walmart those are new brand of oil but a lot of people loving its as long its full Synthetic , I have tried all others full Synthetic high mileage oil and end up with Valvoline & Mobile1 ,  I buy them whichever on sale

I highly recommend Valvoline high mileage full synthetic 5W-30 oil, with Mobil 1 oil filter, my Si K20z3 seems to run so much smoother for longer with this type of oil.

2017 Yukon Denali. Threw lifters at 134. Replaced all. Bad chirp until 142k when switched to Valvoline rp from m1hm. Still a slight chirp but that was gone after adding can of mos2.

I have run the 5w-40 and stuff every day here in utah and it works fine on 300-400 bhp setups. If you are going to the strip or the dyno and going for probably 450-500 crank I would probably grab that gold top mobil one 15w-50. I would also use that for any road racing where the engine oil gets really thinned out from heat. It's also cheap at wal mart I believe. Over at 575-600 bhp we lost a main bearing when doing endurance testing on valve springs with the 5w-40 and very reasonable oil temps. It didn't really catastrophically fail, but was on it's way to it when we tore it down. Have since switched to VR1 20w-50, and the problem so far appears to be cured. That stuff will carry way more load then the thinner oils- the catch is that it's absolute sludge until warmed up. Yet another one of the barriers to extreme power "street" cars I suppose. I'm keeping an eye on it to see if we have a solution. If that doesn't fix it, the problem may be aeration of the oil- we were running at 7500+ for pretty long periods. So basically now the oiling system is a major focus of R&D for us. The oil pressure was never out of the ordinary- although it does start falling once past about 7500 rpms which is also not great.