Engine oil OEM Honda or OEM BMW

My supra BMW. Engine oil + filter, ATF + pan, 6 sparkplug, coolant flush and change = RM3840. Comparing like this i think yours should be reasonable + yours is in KD ???? i won’t worry for first time service at the shop.

If done properly, the vacuum works well. I used to do it on my E36 BMW for years. It does suck out pretty much all oil, I checked it by unscrewing the oil pan plug after the oil had been sucked out.

Zero need to get under the car, I loathe having to do it with my BMW stuff. With the Mrs' Audis I could literally change the oil in a tuxedo & not get a drop of oil on myself.

On my M135i F21 LCI, I always let the initial cold-start finish until the idle drops and then start driving while not going above 4.000 for the first ca. 5km and not giving full gas until the engine oil temperature is 72c or more.

Been doing that and till now no issues or leaks, the engine is running sweet.

I do a 5K oil change interval. I let it warm up for 5+ minutes every morning. Not necessarily because I'm intending to warm it up to operating temp but because that's just how my morning routine goes. I drive moderately and keep the RPM's below 3K and try to keep below 50% load on the engine, aka drive moderately.

My Honda CR-Z manual says to use 0W20 oil for best performance and longevity so I follow that advice.

At 1st I was running 0w-20, that's what is recommended from manufacturer. That being said i run High Mileage 5w30 in my car. Have been for the last 3 oil changes.

Oem Bmw 5w30 longlife 04. I used this for 8 years in my high mileage n47 and sold that thing mint. Go with oem and don't waste a second more thinking about it. Enjoy the car. Just do the changes on time or early and it will be good.

Honda is what I am running now, but might switch over to the Motul.

We had a guy trade in a 10th gen Honda Civic with the L15BE (known for head gasket failure mostly) that he filled with thicker oil. Started knocking like crazy when we changed the oil for the sale.