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This one was done at the local VW dealership where they added 6L of VW oil and were nice enough to collect a sample of the oil for me to send off to Blackstone. The oil in this sample had higher quantities of wear metals present vs the 3rd sample, but that is to be expected as there were more than twice as many miles on the oil.
Also been using Mannol. Do 6k oil changes though. Made chain noise on start up. Swapped back to mannol noise gone.
I've used Mannol for a few years, it's dirt cheap here in the UK and I've never had any issues with it.
Using Mannol since years in Mercedes Diesel and gas engines , also in a BMW Boxer.
Onto my third or fourth big bottle of Mannol in a Toyota 2.2d4d and it has never missed a beat.
I had a 2009 Jetta diesel that used a bit of oil until it hit 60000 miles, then it stopped and did not use ANY between the 8000 mile intervals I used.
I bought oil last year for 22€ for 10l and I use the HiFlo filter with RC on it. Oil is from Mannol. Full synthetic, what do I need more? All the oil company’s always tell you that they are the best, but they don’t even tell you what the difference with their own oil is. Let alone how they are better then the others.
Been using Mannol 0w-20 fully synthetic for 3+ years now for my Jazz, engine is smooth, almost all the time I felt the car would always glide and it cruises easily, fuel consumption is great as well as long you are light footed. Mileage is now at 300000km (oil did not reduce at all within that 10000km service interval)
Just keep the right viscosity oil in it and monitor the oil temp. You might be able to read oil temp from you ECU through the obd port. 120-130C is very ok with good synthetic oil.
I blew up a VW polo with the wrong oil and high oil temps.
This is not fine. VW oils like 502, 504, 508 and 511 are not typical oils. They have a different additive package and the viscosity is different, like the extended performance 5w30 is not the same viscosity as a 504 5w30. The 504 is thicker and is closer to a 40w.
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