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I beat the hell out of some OE Textars in 110+ heat at Buttonwillow and they held up admirably. You don’t need anything more for the street.
I always had good results with textar and Zimmerman.
I use all Textar disks and pads and they are excellent.
I've been to 20 track events to this day I'm still running OEM calipers. Just carbotech pads. You don't need a big brake kit at all. The oem cracks because of improper cooldown. I learned that after a session to take my cooldown lap seriously and ever since then i stopped cracking AutoZone rotors
I ran stock rotors for a long time with carbotech xp10/8, front brake ducts, stainless lines, and Motul 660. The XP10/8 + ducts was sufficient for 20min session the tracks I drive.
I'm using carbotech xp8 on my 3800 pound sedan. They've survived 6 days at the track plus occasional driving around town for a year.
Hey, I track. MK7.5! The floating calipers flex which means you get more pressure on the outer half of the rotor. It's annoying but it's not a problem in my experience.
Something like a Carbotech XP12 pad might do better with the heat but adding brake ducts from the RS3 is cheap and will help quite a bit.
Girodisc should have a 357mm disc available when you've gone through the OE rotors. They're slotted instead of drilled and are 2 piece (aluminum hat).
I am currently using Carbotech XP10's in front and the XP8's for the rears. I really like them and have not had an issue so far. Plus the company has great customer service. They are definitely NOT a street pad, and I need to swap them the night before a track meet and put street pads on the day after, but the effort is worth it.
Quality pads and rotors tend not to warp out in a couple hundred miles. If you bought Durlast junk from Autoroo then that's the reason. Stick with OE/OEM Quality like ATE rotors and Textar pads.
Textar is hot garbage these days unfortunately
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