Brake pads Raybestos or Bendix

Bendix pads are very good. I haven't tried their rotors, but I wouldn't hesitate next time I have to change out.

Wanted brakes for the same car? Ordered Bendix. Bendix has been Ford's brake OEM for decades now.

I use Bendix ultra premium /ceramic pads and I've been quite happy with them

I'd just buy any of the old line good quality aftermarket that are aiming at OEM. Raybestos, Bendix, Wagner. Or just buy BMW OEM.

AC Delco for electronics. Moog for suspension. Raybestos for brakes.

I replaced REAR pads and rotors myself at the end of June of 2017 when I was at 54,000 miles. I used Bendix Ceramic Pads / D1348: https://www.carid.com/bendix/cq-ceramic-rear-disc-brake-pads-mpn-d1348.html These should fit your CC as well (they fit 2.0T and VR6 )They run very clean - like no dust, like the original factory pads did (maybe cleaner). I also opted for oem style rear rotors. Nothing fancy, no slots or drilled holes. The originals didn't have these features and I found them totally serviceable without them. If you buy aftermarket standard style rotors, just be sure that they match the specs of the original factory ones. For my car, the VR6 has rear vented rotors (the 2.0T has solid unvented). I confirmed the vane count and the rotor thickness matched the originals when they were new and then made a decision. I think the rotors I got online were duralast? I can't quite recall. Anyhow, I'm sure I'll be shamed for not going to the VW parts counter for VAG branded parts. But with that said, I have over 2500 miles on since then and the car stops beautifully with zero pedal pulsation. All-in, with a tube of compatible brake grease, I think I was at about $115 in parts and 2.5 hours of my labor.

I put some Bendix organic/ceramic pads on my S-10 way back in the day, and the dust was much more manageable. The dust is a lighter color so it's not nearly as obvious. My current car (G35 Coupe) has ceramic pads, and I can tell a big difference compared to my friends' cars. Brake dust always come back slower on my car.

Yeah, I went with all new pads and rotors on all 4 corners. Bendix OEM replacements in the front and Duramax in the rears (I know I know...but I am poor ) I know some pads are better than others but beyond a certain point pads are pads are pads right?

So I mentioned to Mike at GiroDisc (who is great btw) that I was in the market for pads, and he recommended Raybestos ST43s, which get great reviews. So I went with them, but two events ago they put deposits on the rotors so bad the car shook like mad after a few laps. I still had the HT-10s with me, so I swapped them, they wiped the deposits off and I was back in business for the day.

I put in some new rear brake pads today. The frist brakes I had were Autozone brand. Well, they went on fine on the driver side. On the passenger side It was near impossible to push the piston back far enough to get the pads on. I still needed about another 1/16th of an inch. I even bled brakes a little to make room for the piston compression. Still no luck. So I went back and bought some Bendix that were about 1/16th less in thickness. So, I put them on the passanger side. I had to wrestle with the piston again - that mofo would not budge. Finally I got it. So, I go for a drive with Albany brakes on one side and Bendix on the other. A horrible scaping erupts from the driver's side. The side that went on much easier. Visual inspection looked ok. So I took them off and they were all scraped to heck. Strange, as that was the easy side. So, I put the Bendix pads on that side and everything is fine.