Brake pads OEM Subaru or OEM Honda

2013-2015 have axle recalls…they’ll get fix free but you’ll need to invest in wheel hubs on the front due to the axles failing it’ll mess up the wheel hubs. Also the sensor on the battery it’s something about sending the correct volts to the alternator that’s a big issue and could cause electrical fires. Was also a recall. Besides that just check the car undercarriage for surface rust on calipers they fail a lot due to abunch of surface rust and debris getting into it over time and it’ll act like it’s seized up but really all the grease is just gone over time. Get good quality ceramic pads these cars squeal like a pig with the cheap ones. Also valve cover gasket is a must always will leak eventually every 30k miles or so. Best bet is getting a 2016 &up tbh

I have a 2017 Forester XT with 131,000 miles - have only done routine maintenance and have had to replace brakes front and rear as well as both control arms and struts, all expected with this many miles on it. I plan to keep it for as long as I can. Love it!

The CRVs I have are a 2010 with 210k miles. AC compressor every 100k miles and an alternator at 200. Brakes at 100k and 160k and 210k, the OEM brakes are amazing. Spark plugs at 100k and 200k and both times still looked new. Still drives amazing and is solid it's better than my 2017 CRV.

Nice. 2011 here (also bought new) but I did all four brakes at 68K miles. They had some life left in them according to the shop, but they just started feeling a tad soft, and my brake pedal was getting a little to close to the floor for comfort.

I do the minor maintenance myself: oil/filter, air filters, wiper blades.

I save enough $$ on the DIY portion, so I don't mind using my dealer for the other stuff: front & rear dif fluids, CVT fluid, brake fluid, brake pads, etc.

Last week front passenger brake began making a metal on metal grinding noise. Assumed it was brakes because this vehicle has been a frequent brake pad/rotor-replacee due to the mileage of the car. The brake pads were very low. Drove the car around for about 30mins today and no grinding noise BUT the front passenger was very hot and didn’t smell good.

After bringing the knuckle back, we reinstalled the brake pads. We had a difficult time getting the pads to sit correctly, specifically with the anti-rattle clips (prongs). Eventually, they seemed to seat properly, and we reattached the pads and caliper.

We were quoted slightly over $1000 USD for brake pads and rotor resurfacing. \ud83e\udd72 Dealership quote. Going to another shop.

Bro they're trying to fuck you hard. Take that vehicle somewhere else and never go back. No way the rear pads should be at 2mm after only 30k miles

I did have VTC rattle on startup but it went away before I could get around to fixing it. I also had the injectors fail, which were covered under that warranty recall. Also have a leak on the inside of the vehicle from a rear speaker gasket, that will be fixed when I get around to it in the coming weeks. I only learned I had a leak because the interior was moldy and moist. My brakes failed on track mostly likely due to me overheating them, and not properly cooling them down. I ended up melting the O ring on the piston itself. Never really got to diagnose what the issue really was just what I saw and felt. Replaced with "Integra Type R Big Brakes and a Mini Cooper Rotor". Somehow my compressor clutch wire was chopped in half, which caused me to replace the compressor. Though I probably could've just fixed the wires, but I already bought a new compressor so I just replaced it.