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Akebono pads with Zimmerman rotors is the absolute best combo out there. They are quiet with good progressive pedal feel and low dust.
One of my inner rear pads went at 110k. FCP euro has a full brake kit front and rear rotors with Zimmerman and TRW ceramic pads for around $400. It's OEM style replacement, so no real upgrade performance to speak but it's a daily not a track car and the price was right.
Zimmerman blank rotors + TRW pads. I just did my first brake change and these are silent and cost less than $400 for rotors/pads/bolts/grease.
I swapped my stocks for TRW/Zimmerman pad/rotors and so far they feel good.
I recall Honda uses Akebono as the maker for their OEM brake pads and from my experience with multiple Honda cars, the brake pads work well.
I upgraded to the akebono pads, and blank rotors. I have been satisfied, and would recommend this combination
You also absolutely can not go wrong with Akebono, that is also top quality stuff.
I have Akebono ceramic euro pads on my S-Class and absolutely love them. They last, great stopping power, and literally no dust!
I'm in the "Akebono are not better" camp and I have done some extensive testing.For a ceramic pad, yes, the Akebono are better than ceramic competitors. However, they do not have as much bite as the semi-metallic pads. This is something that can't be debated, they can't bite as hard as the semi-metallic compound.I too hate brake dust and tried the Akebono pads on my wife's VW and I immediately noticed that they didn't bite as hard as the OE pads. That same week, I ordered the OE pads and it fixed the problem.I've also tried the Akebono on an E350 and I came to the same conclusion. I actually think the EBC Red ceramics may bite a little more (when new) than the Akebono. However, the EBC reds always left this weird deposit on rotors that would make it feel like they were warped and they would need to be turned down.
I just put on Akebono ceramics and Zimmerman coated rotors and I hated them for the first few hundred miles. They took a very long time to break in, and this was after a) paying attention to the instructions that say no break-in is needed and b) ignoring that advice when the stopping distances were so bad initially that I bedded them in... and yet the pedal effort was so high that I could barely engage the ABS in the dry. So I'd recommend staying away from that combination.
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