Brake caliper Girling or OEM Porsche

Yesterday I took my E30 (325e sedan) to a brake shop...Both sides got the discs a bit warped and brake pads were uneven, so I got them resurfaced since they were still thick and new brake pads were installed. Right side got corrected and free right away but left side was still stuck even with the new brake pads. ...We discovered the caliper slider pins were bended and got them replaced but still the problem persisted. Guys at the shop told me I needed a new caliper on that side since it could be bended and that's why with the new brake pads it gets stuck since they're thicker. I already got a pair of new ones but will replace them tomorrow. Replaced both sides and now they’re working perfectly fine.

I have the oem blue center caps otw but am not installing them until I powdercoat my Porsche calipers blue in the spring(currently red).

Enter the 17z Porsche upgrade. I believe this is the cheapest route you can go for a good BBK of this size aside from the even bigger 18z Brembo's also availible. This is a very easy direct swap with two modification parts You'll need the calipers and pads from an 04-10 Porsche Cayenne The 334mm rotors and front SS lines for the mk4 r32 The adapter plate from Ecstuning made by creationsmotorsports It's just 10 bolts for the install, that's it. Jack up the car talk off the wheel Disconnect the brake wear sensor Without taking the brakes apart, clamp the brake hose, disconnect from the caliper, remove the two caliper carrier bolts and yank the caliper, pads an all off, put to the side an do man shout. Unscrew the rotor screw an beat it with a hammer like it owes u money, unless you plan on keeping it. Cut the brake sensor from the brake pad and connect the two together Install new rotor The slots don't matter which way but the vanes do. Make sure they flow like shark fins to the front of the car Now if you didn't notice when you go to install the adapters your caliper carrier bolts are now too long and when you go to tighten the adapters you might not notice but you will screw into your new rotors either pushing the rotor off snapping the rotor screw or stripping the spindle tread whichever comes 1st. Get new bolts and grind or cut then about in half USE THREAD LOCK!!! Install adapters and calipers Unless you have an r32, the brake lines will not match back up, so until you come up with a solution zip ties will be your friend You can easily bend but I didn't have enough time on my lunch break. Connect an bleed the system an that's it's your done. So the verdict. If you don't bleed the system enough, the 1st pedal push will feel like your stepping in poo. You have to bleed A LOT to get your pedal back bleeding through the abs using VAG Do you have to change your M/C no. If you do not change your M/C you will be ok. If you want to go that extra extra route for increased pedal feel the Audi 200 M/C is supposed to be used. I will be doing that as well because i'm extra with stuff. I already purchased it just have yet to install it The vw M/C is black and aside the 2 extra ports and the slant looks like it's a go. That's for when the weather gets better. I hope this was helpful.

I have 17z 6-pod front calipers paired with Cayenne 4-pod rear calipers and I have a slight soft pedal. However, once the calipers grip onto the rotor, car stops much faster than OEM.

Running Girling 60 dual pot calipers and carriers out of a 1988 Audi 5000 Quattro with 11" rotors from a Corrado G60 up front, a drum-to-disc swap out back with the proper proportioning valve, and a master cylinder out of a 1990 Audi 200 (non-abs). Braided lines feed all 4. Possibly most importantly, all that is run using RBF600. I have run all sorts of different pads over the last couple years but I have found that the car really isn't heavy enough or fast enough to need anything more than OEM type pads (even at track days). I did have to get bigger wheels to fit the front brakes so I found some nice light RPF1 knock-offs. The overall setup feels much firmer than stock and is very easy to live with. The only other nit-pick I can think of is that not all the pads I have tried come with shims (sheets of soft metal that goes between the pad and caliper piston) which leads to extra noise and can be unpleasant. I have found that most of the time, you can just move the shims from the old pad to the new and it works 99%.

I bought brand new girling calipers(33 bucks shipped on ebay c'mon!) Previously I ordered rotors from rockauto. Installing new unworn pads is impossible.not enough room.

Those would be the Girling G60 (not to be confused with the Girling G54 that came on cars with G60 engines). IMHO too heavy and, at least over here, totally overpriced for what they are.

I'm not a fan of the Girling 60 calipers due to the weight of them and also the scarcity of replacement parts (due to low production volume).

First day with my 951 on the road, just got it registered and my front drivers caliper locks up and boiled my fluid before I could get home.

ok so last weekend i did 312mm rotors, porsche boxster calipers and stainless lines. i had g60 brakes previous. i bled them out nooooooo air. drove the car and expected to stand it on it nose. brakes no better than what i had, maybe worse.