Battery YUASA or OEM Volkswagen

Nice hack. I have a Yuasa that will be 13 years old this year and still going.

I have a yuasa ybx 3000 recharging battery for Mazda 6 2011. I've had it three years with no problems since recently.

Update: it was just the battery, everything works fine after replacement and coding/adaptation. No error codes. Thanks everyone

For the last couple years my riding mower has been starting off of the Yuasa battery that I had taken out of my Valkyrie. I took it out because it was 10 years old and I thought I might be pushing my luck with it. I credit using a tender to give me 12+ years on my bike battery plus it\u2019s a quality battery.

Had this issue with the R1250RT - apparently the hot engine means more compression, so need more power to start - after a while the OEM-battery just doesn’t have the punch.

I upgraded the battery to the Yuasa YTX20CH‑BS and it solved the problem.

I prefer Yuasa.

I just preemptively changed my 2007 VW golf battery at 120k...I probably could have gone farther but every now and again I would get a weird code that likely was voltage relative.

VW OEM batteries in modern cars often do that. I was lucky to detect slightly "lazy" cranking in my 2018 GSW 4Mo. Tested and showed %51 SOH even after fully charging it. Lasted 6 years almost to the date.

The battery VW uses in the ID.4 is trash. I had it replaced under warranty in my 2021 after about 2 years when my car died in the garage and I had to get assistance. The tow truck driver got it going with a jump starter. It\u2019s now just out of warranty in year 4 and I get the \u201cLow 12V\u201d warning on cold days.

I bought a Yuasa battery from AutoPro, and they told me it comes with a 2-year warranty. After about one and a half years, the battery almost completely died. I had it tested and was told it was dead and needed replacement.