Battery Varta or OEM Volvo

Varta Battery
MrTSI
  • Cranking:
Rating 4.0

I got just over 7 years from the factory Varta battery in my old 2015 MK7. It was the smaller H4 size and always started flawlessly in the Canadian winter. It ended up failing in the early summer. It cranked rather slowly one morning and the voltage refused to go above 12.3, even after charging. It barely started when I went to get the new battery. I was lucky enough to not get stranded.

Pros: long lifespan (7 years), flawless cold starts
Cons: sudden failure
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Varta Battery

Got a Japanese one: Varta Automotive EFB Car Battery Q-85/115D23L 12v 70Ah 660A (EN) just over 1/2 the price of an Australian made Q-85. Got 6.5 years out of original from Japan 2019 using stop start most of the time.

Pros: 6.5 years of use
Part number: Q85/115D23L
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Varta Battery

Varta’dan vazgecmeyin. Zamaninda bahsettiginiz markalari kullandim 2 yil sonrasinda yolda kaldim. Kendi aracimdaki aku de Varta.

Pros: Varta en iyisi
Cons: yolda kaldim
Vehicle: Mercedes
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Varta Battery

Clio 2014 aracım vardı s&s lu orijinal aküsünden sonra mutlu akü kullandım memnun kalmadım şuan Varta kullanıyorum çok memnunum ben yerinde olsam risk almam vartadan devam ederim

Pros: Varta çok memnunum
Cons: mutlu akü memnun kalmadım
Vehicle: Renault Clio
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Varta Battery
Marcuz78
  • Indicator:
Rating 5.0

However, the choice that I currently consider most balanced in terms of performance/duration/cost is the VARTA Silver Dynamic AGM 95Ah.

Pros: balanced performance, duration, cost
Vehicle: Alfa Romeo Giulia
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OEM Volvo Battery

my dishwasher has around 200 mile motorway range on a 64kWh net battery, which'll get me from Oxford to Darlington on a single charge, I could get to Newcastle if I camp behind a truck for most of it. My car is also stupidly inefficient for an EV, better EVs like a ID.3 or Megane could go further with smaller batteries.

Pros: 200 mile motorway range
Cons: stupidly inefficient
Vehicle: Volvo
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OEM Volvo Battery
OldMail6364
  • Cranking:
  • Lights:
  • Indicator:
Rating 1.0

The battery is almost certainly dead.

Something else wrong with your car likely killed the battery and if that's the case buying a new battery will just result in the same problem pretty soon.

Cons: battery is dead
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OEM Volvo Battery

That battery is absolutely cooked, sounds like the cells have sulfated to hell or there's internal damage from deep cycling

The fact that it's only taking 72-94Wh when it should be 600Wh is screaming dead cells, and that voltage drop from 12.8 to 4v in 2 hours is not normal even with parasitic draw

Pros: screaming dead cells
Cons: battery is cooked
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