Alternator OEM Nissan or Duralast

I agree, alternator from autozone is not bad. I replaced mine with a Duralast and never had a problem so far.

I have 155k on my 2002 Nissan Frontier XE King Cab 4 cylinder 4x2. No real problems besides a bad alternator and rear e-brake cable that I just replaced

Bought a '91 XE 5 speed in 1996. Sold in 2000. Took it from about 60K to 150K. Pros: Gas Mileage--High 30s, never saw 40 like some people. 5 speed helped keep it peppy. Anvil like reliability. Replaced alternator and clutch.

So I go to get some iced coffee because Dunkin just came out with pumpkin and the car doesn't start. Sputters. So I call roadside assistance for a jump. They tell me it can't be jumped and it's probably my starter. Real kicker is I then call for a tow, tow guy shows up and jumps it???? So I HESITANTLY drive it to the dealer who determines it's a bad alternator.

When I lived in walking distance of a 24-hour AutoZone, there seemed to be more people waiting in line to get their lifetime-warranted DuraLast alternators replaced than for battery replacements.

And while I dont recall Hyundai being one of them, there are certain make/models that need an OEM alternator or they just wont work right (i.e Duralast Alternator in a BMW X5=bad idea)

I had an issue on my 88 300ZX where a failed alternator burned out the ALT link. This is a connection between the alternator and the battery.

2 weeks ago, my 120amp Bosch crapped out on my '95 GLX. Decided the Duralast route wasn't a bad direction, being it's actually an OEM Bosch alternator, that Duralast performs the remanufacture on, with their own regulator, brushes, and bearings. It was also stated that they had numerous testing fazes performed after the rebuild. I had a 25% off coupon, and $40 in Autozone credit points. Walked out with the alternator for around $90, being the 120amp alternators are more expensive. Took care of the install, started it, power held, and she ran beautiful. Then a few minutes later, I started to hear a bearing scream. Was worried it was the alternator, as that was the only factor that changed, aside from disengaging the tensionar pulley and removing the serpentine belt during the alternator installation. 2 days later, cars sitting there warming up, hear the RPM's start to change, the gauge cluster display starts to dim, the door chime weakens out, and the car dies. Wouldn't you know, that Duralast alternator **** the bed with less than 10 miles on the rebuild.